Need fast help checking timing!!!

[Tooky]

I got my timing light hooked up and it flashes the line. I disconnected the TAN wire by the passenger's foot. Ok so here is what it looks like:

Except my timing line is near the valley of the one "giant" sawtooth on the far driver's side. It would be point "B" in this picture. What point is that? I can't make sense of it. Is it 0 or not? If it is not 0, is it retarded or advanced? Thanks tons!! I need anyone's help ASAP.

_________________
Josh Straub, Syclone #0044
"Does not work well with others."

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TookyCat on 2001-10-26 21:01 ]</font>

 

[Syclone#892]

I am not sure what point it should be at sorry for not being of much help, I know it should be at one of the points but am not sure which one. Are you still going to be at highway 100 tonight?

 

[Tooky]

David, yes I am considering it critical to make it to Highway 100 in case it is our last time PLUS the kids have off school Thurs and today so it should be crowded and fun. If I find my timing is off I don't think I will adjust it tonight because I don't have time to do it unless I can figure out a quick way. Every time I try to make it to a meeting after working on the Sy, something goes wrong and it takes 5 times longer than I thought. So I am going to avoid disassembling anything ! See you there.

 

[myclone]

The deepest "valley" is zero. Ya wanna have the mark show up under the timing light right at that point.. Thats 0 deg base timing.

As for wheather your timing is retarded or advanced as it stands now Id have to go out in the garage and look at one of the 50 or so timing covers I got laying around.. Cant do it now gotta go to work.

 

[4C FED]

Tooky,
You are retarded.
With respect to timing that is.:grin:

_________________

Rick
Sy#458
Galt, CA

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 4C FED on 2001-10-27 00:31 ]</font>

 

[Tooky]

On 2001-10-27 00:31, 4C FED wrote:
Tooky,
You are retarded.
With respect to timing that is.:grin:

Ha-ha :smile: Seriously, you are saying my timing is already retarded? If that's true then it means putting it to 0 will make my knock even worse!!! :sad: :~(

 

[4C FED]

It was late last night, so let me try again.

The deepest valley is the 0 deg. mark.

Anything to the left, towards A, is advanced.
Anything beyond the deepest valley to the right, is retarded.

It is difficult to see where the timing mark is on the damper in your pic. You would know best.

 

[Guest]

so if tooky is at B he is at 0*?

 

[Tooky]

Here, I drew a picture of what mine says. I was looking at it and thought it said something on it like 6 0 6. Then I read closer and there was more letters. It looked like it said 3PORES or SPORE3 or something. Then my dad showed me a manual from the 60's with timing marks and I figured it out. It says BEFORE. Just very difficult to make out. Here's the picture, I tried to include everything mentionable:

The Maroon indicates where mine is. How far advanced/retarded would you say I am? And the most important question - do you think it warrants attempting to adjust the distributor? Thank you.

_________________
Josh Straub, Syclone #0044
"Does not work well with others."

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: TookyCat on 2001-10-27 14:41 ]</font>

 

[jwaller]

you are reatarded by about 1.5 deg..you want it to be in the vally just to the left of where you are now.

 

[Tooky]

Fuck!! I was hoping it was advanced like 10 degrees. :sad: If it's 1.5* retarded then I will leave it until I get the knock to 0. Once I get the knock that low do you think it is still worth it to increase that paltry 1.5* or will that make a worthwhile difference?

On the bright side I took the truck out last night in 32*F weather with flurries.. knock was much lower than last week when it was hitting 9. Now it's like 1-4*.

 

[Daron]

Setting it to 0 is not only recomended by the manual, but 4 out of 5 listers will agree that this is a good thing. Like the fuel pump, plugs and wires, starting off at a "known" state can make troubleshooting your knock much easier....

_________________
Daron
1992 Typhoon Blue/Gray
1991 Syclone Best 1/4 12.42 @ 106.1
Member Of Freakin' Ohio (MOFO) SyTy

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Daron on 2001-10-27 18:10 ]</font>

 

[Tooky]

Why would retarding my timing make knock worse? I thought it was the other way. I don't understand.

PS: How did you like my picture, I thought it turned out well :razz:

 

[Guest]

Yippie Sy yea mother fuc**r!!!! Timing was at 10*advanced and now is at 0*! Only took a regular 14mm wrench and some bloody knuckles. I took my cap off and loosened the bolt, put everything back on, cranked it up, adjusted the timing, took everything back off and tightened the bolt and put everything back on and double checked that I didnt move anything. It took around an hour. I also adjusted fuel pressure from 55 base lbs to 45 base lbs and changed the O2 sensor. Im excited because I just did something I've never done and it worked perfectly. Thanks for everyones help!!! Josh, Let me know how yours works out.

 

[JoeLutz]

How common is it for the balancer timing mark to be off and by how much? My timing appears to be very retarded, but I don't think that it really is.

 

[Blake]

When I did the timing on my Ty, I disconnected the tan timing connector. The idle was very rough and made it difficult to check the timing. The truck would almost die and then the rpms would flare up, the timing would advance slightly and then fall as the rpms fell and then it would start over again. Is this normal or is something else going on? My timing was advanced 8 deg BTDC and now it runs much better since I'm closer to zero but I can't get it perfect because of the flaring. Any ideas? IAC maybe?

 

[Daron]

On 2001-11-13 09:52, Blake wrote:
When I did the timing on my Ty, I disconnected the tan timing connector. The idle was very rough and made it difficult to check the timing. The truck would almost die and then the rpms would flare up, the timing would advance slightly and then fall as the rpms fell and then it would start over again. Is this normal or is something else going on? My timing was advanced 8 deg BTDC and now it runs much better since I'm closer to zero but I can't get it perfect because of the flaring. Any ideas? IAC maybe?

Something else is up... On either of my trucks, idle is rather smooth with the tan wire un-corked. Try adjusting the timing with the motor up to operating temps to see if that makes it better. It is weird that your ignition is firing as you describe, since the ECM stops varing timing once you un plug the connector.
For instance I just went out and put a light on the Sy, and I can vary the RPMs by a few hundred and will not see a difference at the timing indicator, with my timing light. If I rev it to say 1500 then the mark jumps to about 6 degrees advanced, but is steady there.

Maybe try a different timing light? Hmmm... not sure what else to suggest.

 

[Blake]

Thanks Daron.
I'll try another light(my neighbor's dad owns and runs Neely's auto repair)I'm sure he's go one there. It's definitely doing something funny cause it'll almost die on its way down then flare again. With this truck's history nothing surprises me. I'm in the process of disabling the egr(to clean things up) and redoing pretty much everything down to the heads. Might even do another cam. Don't know yet. Thanks for replying, at least now I KNOW something's still amiss.
Blake

 

[JoeLutz]

When I disconnected the tan wire, my Ty also tried to die. After a while, though it smoothed out.

 

[Daron]

On 2001-11-24 23:36, joeelutz wrote:
When I disconnected the tan wire, my Ty also tried to die. After a while, though it smoothed out.

I never disconnect the tan wire while the vehicle is running. I turn the vehicle off, connect timing light, disconnect tan wire, then start the truck, check timing. Once timing is checked, re-connect wire, remove power to ecm for 30 sec or so to clear code, remove timing light etc....