Brian suggested using engine tie down straps to help eliminate false knock. Where is the best place to get them and what kind of material is reccomended. Back in the old days they used to use chains to keep from breaking motor mounts!
I tried a 900 lb. rated nylon tie-down strap from the alternator bracket to the front upper A-arm bolt. It held for a while, but after a few power launches, it gave out and broke. After I rebuild my front-end with the new PST suspension components, I'm going to give it another try with a stronger nylon ratchet strap. Don't use a chain or metal rod; you'll get false knock and/or damage something under the hood when it breaks!
I have a turnbuckle on mine and have it slightly loose so the mount takes normal vibrations out and once it flexes the chain takes over. I wrapped it with a piece of heater hose to take away any rattle that might cause false knock. At least Datamaster shows nothing of it.
Tyler,
The way I see it is if the chain is tight, it can't rattle. However, on all the old hotrods, they ran the chain with a little slack in it to cut down on vibration in the vehicle under normal driving, but its still there when you need it.
i drilled a hole in the engine to alternator bracket and used a ratcheting strap rated to 3000 lbs. this was a quick fix to a broken motor mount. its still holding tight after a month of abuse. i got the strap at autozone and it only comes in racecar yellow :sad: .
I used the loose turnbuckle with a few chain links on a couple trucks now with good results. I'm of the mind that it only needs that tightness at load, keep it loosened in regular driving.
I have a tailgate cable. Got it from Auto-Zone for $12. Works great for me. Attached to alternator and drilled and taped it into the frame. No problems so far.
On 2002-01-19 01:30, Hu Ryde wrote:
I have a tailgate cable. Got it from Auto-Zone for $12. Works great for me. Attached to alternator and drilled and taped it into the frame. No problems so far.