What is the best way to test the TC?

MIXEDBREED

New member
Ok so I have read searched ect. and am trying to find the best/ easiest way to test your transfer case to see if its good. Basically my truck is only rwd due to a unknown prob with either the tc or the front diff area.

Ok so idk if this is a good test for the tc or not but bere is what I did. I put the truck on jackstands ie all four tires off the ground. I put the truck in drive and looked under it to see if the propshaft was moving and it was turning just fine. The front left tire turned very slowly and the pass front tire did not move at all. I am now thinking it may be a front diff problem rather then the tc. I know if i drive the truck and go wot ect the back tires just spin and the front does not pull at all. I am going to do this again and have someone give the truck some gas to see if maybe something is slipping in the front diff or maybe the tc.

Any help you guys can give will be great.
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Alright, stop messing with the tcase with the engine running. That's a good way to get hurt, and you won't really learn anything.

There's a couple of postings on here (you can search for them) about checking out the viscous coupling, which explain things in great detail. But I'll summarize below.

1.) You'll need the truck up in the air such that you can work on it.
2.) Put the trans in neutral.
3.) Remove the front prop shaft (if you haven't already).
4.) Lock the rear output shaft in some way (you can use the rear driveshaft as a big wrench if needed)
5.) Apply torque to the front output shaft of the tcase. With the rear output stationary and torque applied to the front input, the VC should resist forces and slowly backdrive the input shaft to the trans (hence why its in neutral). The torque value should be in the 60 to 80 ft lbs range (according to the guys on here who've done this test) and things should move slowly.

So, here's what you learn:
1.) If it moves really fast with basically no torque applied, you need a new VC (it's no longer capable of splitting torque) or some other internal TC parts (not sure what else could go wrong and cause that situation, but I'd bet there's something).
2.) If it doesn't move at all, you need a new VC (it's locked solid)
3.) If it spins slowly at about the right torque value, the VC is ok. You might still want to check the chain that drives the front for slack, but that usually creates a jumping / popping / banging sound.


Given your symptons, I'd guess it' situation #2, VC is locked, and additionally that your front diff is junk. All of the S10 front diffs interchange, nothing special there, but only some of them will have the correct ratio. I'd suggest you need to find a good salvage yard unit and install it. Rebuilding the front diff is reported to be among the most difficult (as far as getting it set up right) and parts are expensive.

'JustDreamin'
 

MIXEDBREED

New member
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Alright, stop messing with the tcase with the engine running. That's a good way to get hurt, and you won't really learn anything.

There's a couple of postings on here (you can search for them) about checking out the viscous coupling, which explain things in great detail. But I'll summarize below.

1.) You'll need the truck up in the air such that you can work on it.
2.) Put the trans in neutral.
3.) Remove the front prop shaft (if you haven't already).
4.) Lock the rear output shaft in some way (you can use the rear driveshaft as a big wrench if needed)
5.) Apply torque to the front output shaft of the tcase. With the rear output stationary and torque applied to the front input, the VC should resist forces and slowly backdrive the input shaft to the trans (hence why its in neutral). The torque value should be in the 60 to 80 ft lbs range (according to the guys on here who've done this test) and things should move slowly.

So, here's what you learn:
1.) If it moves really fast with basically no torque applied, you need a new VC (it's no longer capable of splitting torque) or some other internal TC parts (not sure what else could go wrong and cause that situation, but I'd bet there's something).
2.) If it doesn't move at all, you need a new VC (it's locked solid)
3.) If it spins slowly at about the right torque value, the VC is ok. You might still want to check the chain that drives the front for slack, but that usually creates a jumping / popping / banging sound.


Given your symptons, I'd guess it' situation #2, VC is locked, and additionally that your front diff is junk. All of the S10 front diffs interchange, nothing special there, but only some of them will have the correct ratio. I'd suggest you need to find a good salvage yard unit and install it. Rebuilding the front diff is reported to be among the most difficult (as far as getting it set up right) and parts are expensive.

'JustDreamin'

I wasnt messing with the tc while the truck was on. All I did was look under it from the side to see if the front propshaft was moving with the truck in drive while the truck was on jackstands. I will have to do you test today and see what happens. i dont have a problem getting a new tc or front diff I am just wanted to find out what all I need to fix the truck.
 

Baythan

SY2TY2SY2TY
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

I wasnt messing with the tc while the truck was on. All I did was look under it from the side to see if the front propshaft was moving with the truck in drive while the truck was on jackstands. I will have to do you test today and see what happens. i dont have a problem getting a new tc or front diff I am just wanted to find out what all I need to fix the truck. And THANK YOU, justdreamin for that excellent write-up and your great advice!


Fixed. ;) :roll:
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

I wasnt messing with the tc while the truck was on. All I did was look under it from the side to see if the front propshaft was moving with the truck in drive while the truck was on jackstands. I will have to do you test today and see what happens. i dont have a problem getting a new tc or front diff I am just wanted to find out what all I need to fix the truck.

Glad to hear you weren't messing with it with the truck on. Your post wasn't all that clear, and I was concerned you'd be posting pictures of hands with missing fingers next. Nobody wants that.


Yeah, my bet is front diff is shot and it's taken the VC out due to no resistance on the front output shaft. These tcases are pretty simple, rugged, reliable, and stout (into the 9's), but the VC won't really tolerate being run without a functional front drive system for long. It's a matter of when, not if the VC will cook under those conditions. And every one seems to be different, some go with little time with the front shaft removed, others go for months (guess it's kinda like the transmissions in these trucks, some live great behind modified motors, others break at the thought of boost) then lose it.

Good luck getting it fixed!

One last word of warning. Be careful with parking. Since your VC is cooked, the truck won't drift with the messed up front diff. But if you fix that and haven't fixed the front driveline (or if the front shaft is out), the truck will drift when parked. Don't believe me, search for it. Happens to Astro owners from time to time too.


'JustDreamin'
 

MIXEDBREED

New member
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Glad to hear you weren't messing with it with the truck on. Your post wasn't all that clear, and I was concerned you'd be posting pictures of hands with missing fingers next. Nobody wants that.


Yeah, my bet is front diff is shot and it's taken the VC out due to no resistance on the front output shaft. These tcases are pretty simple, rugged, reliable, and stout (into the 9's), but the VC won't really tolerate being run without a functional front drive system for long. It's a matter of when, not if the VC will cook under those conditions. And every one seems to be different, some go with little time with the front shaft removed, others go for months (guess it's kinda like the transmissions in these trucks, some live great behind modified motors, others break at the thought of boost) then lose it.

Good luck getting it fixed!

One last word of warning. Be careful with parking. Since your VC is cooked, the truck won't drift with the messed up front diff. But if you fix that and haven't fixed the front driveline (or if the front shaft is out), the truck will drift when parked. Don't believe me, search for it. Happens to Astro owners from time to time too.


'JustDreamin'

Ya i think I might have to end up getiing a tc and a new fron diff all at once just to make sure everything is good. Thanks man i will do the test when i get a chance but I think I already know what i will end up having to do.
 
T

Ty0331

Guest
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

The torque value should be in the 60 to 80 ft lbs range (according to the guys on here who've done this test) and things should move slowly.

I did this test and write-up in October. I found it took 12-15 seconds to rotate the front output 90º at 40ft lbs indicated on the torque wrench. The t-case had been in the sun all day, and was about 100ºF. These results are from a known-good T-case out of my personal vehichle, that I know behaves and drives correctly.
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

I did this test and write-up in October. I found it took 12-15 seconds to rotate the front output 90º at 40ft lbs indicated on the torque wrench. The t-case had been in the sun all day, and was about 100ºF. These results are from a known-good T-case out of my personal vehichle, that I know behaves and drives correctly.

Those specific details are good to know. In the sun all day might be important, but I would expect that it wouldn't have that much impact on the torque value or time (maybe I'm wrong).

'JustDreamin'
 

REVEREND HARMON

Party in a box!
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

I was having the same problem with my ty. I rebuilt the transfercase with a new vc. When i took it for a test drive i heard a faint grinding noise. Put the truck in the air and let it run. Front passanger tire was spinnin but the drivers was going nowhere. The spider gear was toast in the front diff.

I guess with the toasted vc it played havoc on the front diff. Didnt notice the issue of the front diff before because the transfer case was shot.

I love these trucks :tup:
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Put the truck in the air and let it run. Front passanger tire was spinnin but the drivers was going nowhere. The spider gear was toast in the front diff.

Just great. I have my Sy in the air diagnosing the transmission. My front driver spins (twice as fast the rear) and by front passenger barely spins. Does that mean my front differential is gone or on it's way out?
 

alwayscode390

pppssssshhhhhtttttttttttt
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

This is a good thread, and I am glad I am not the only one having AWD (front) problems.

I think mine is involved with the chain. I get a LOT of slapping sounds, and it sucks ---
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Just great. I have my Sy in the air diagnosing the transmission. My front driver spins (twice as fast the rear) and by front passenger barely spins. Does that mean my front differential is gone or on it's way out?

Well, if it's spinning twice as fast, that means the diff is still spinning (spider gears and such) like it's supposed to.

What you need to figure out is why the passengers side barely spins. Maybe the right front caliper is stuck or dragging? What's the condition of the wheel bearings for the right front? Need to check on them. If everything else checks out, then I'd suggest its time to look in the diff (check the easy stuff first).

'JustDreamin'
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

This is a good thread, and I am glad I am not the only one having AWD (front) problems.

I think mine is involved with the chain. I get a LOT of slapping sounds, and it sucks ---

Slapping sound does make me think of chain issues. I'm not sure if you can replace the chain with the tcase still in the truck or not. But certainly it should be easy to diagnose (split the case and check the chain for a bunch of slack and aluminum particles). I thought there was a post about changing chains in this forum, but not sure. Might do a quick search and see if you find something. If so, post a linky....

'JustDreamin'
 
T

Ty0331

Guest
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

It's important to keep in mind that there are TWO failure modes for the viscous coupler. Open, or locked. Only the locked mode can cause front differential failure. If there is a front diff failure with broken parts, then the viscous clutch being 'locked' must be considered as a cause.

Dave's front diff action (one front wheel turns 2X rear wheel speed) seems normal.

Harmon's failure (one wheel turns, one doesn't) with broken spider gears makes no sense to me. If the spiders are broken, neither front wheel should turn (unless it's a 'locker' differential). More info is needed, or just chalk it up to "I wasn't there, so I don't know how he got these test results". I know he busted a couple of axles prior to getting this resolved. Axle breakage, once again, is almost always caused by a locked v-clutch.

This is all mathematics, and mechanical engineering. Understanding how the system works, is paramount to accurate diagnosis, and a complete, cost-effective repair. I've seen so much misinformation, and outright BS regarding how the viscous clutch works, and diagnosis there of on here over the years, I've almost given up responding to T-case threads. A couple of people truly understand it. Many don't. But it's not black magic. It's purely mechanichal. No electronics or 'mystery' involved.

If a mod wanted to go back to October 09 and try to find the post with the pictures for the T-case v-clutch torque test made by DaveP, and restore it into this thread, he will leave it up. The pic links should still work.

Anonymous SyTy Peep since 1996
 
T

Ty0331

Guest
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Slapping sound does make me think of chain issues.

It can also be a busted cage in a ball bearing, but this is not likely. There are several ball bearings in the T-case. I've had a bunch of these t-cases apart, and never seen a busted cage. I mention this because the sound is similar.

The chain can be easily checked for slack by rotating the front output CCW by hand, with the trans in park. Then turn it sharply CW, and listen for the chain to hit the bottom of the case. You may also be able to bend up a rod, or double coat-hanger and try to 'test' for slack in the top of the chain by removing the lube fill plug. There's nothing in there between the plug hole and the chain. But I've never tried this. Just another idea.

There really shouldn't be much slack in the chain. If excessive, it will show up in other than noises. In late-model NV T-cases, chain slack is a problem in that it wears through the aluminum case, and causes loss of lube and burn-up. Quite common in mid-90's Suburban, Tahoe, C/K's.

Anonymous SyTy peep.
 
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dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Dave's front diff action (one front wheel turns 2X rear wheel speed) seems normal.

That atleast makes my day much better now, I have enough work on my Sy without rebuild and R&R the front differential.
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

It's important to keep in mind that there are TWO failure modes for the viscous coupler. Open, or locked. Only the locked mode can cause front differential failure. If there is a front diff failure with broken parts, then the viscous clutch being 'locked' must be considered as a cause.

This is all mathematics, and mechanical engineering. Understanding how the system works, is paramount to accurate diagnosis, and a complete, cost-effective repair. I've seen so much misinformation, and outright BS regarding how the viscous clutch works, and diagnosis there of on here over the years, I've almost given up responding to T-case threads. A couple of people truly understand it. Many don't. But it's not black magic. It's purely mechanichal. No electronics or 'mystery' involved.
You're right, these things are strictly mechanical and should be simple to understand, but the tcase in these trucks has been treated like a black box for years. Nobody has taken the time to explain what's going on in there, and the function of those bits.

I'll take a stab at it, however. Hopefully I'll get it right.

Basically the stuff that's in that tcase boils down to a few mechanical components (and a bunch of supporting gear like bearings and bushings)
1.) A planetary differential (the gearset in the tcase) acts exactly as a conventional differential with spider gears, only in a planetary format, which is a bit tougher for most to visualize.
2.) A viscous coupling (to convert the otherwise open diff to "limited slip" action) which basically is putting a governor or regulator on the speed differential between the front and rear outputs.
3.) Chain drive to move the front output away (distance of what, 12") from the trans output shaft (which runs up the center of the hollow front output shaft).

The gear ratio of the planetary differential determines the front to rear bias. The factory setup provides a 35% F / 65% R (static) bias (something like a 2.84:1 ratio). The billet set of gears that George Blake had made has a slightly different split (it's about: 33%F / 67% R) (has a 3:1 ratio) The planetary gear ratios dictate the basic split, and the viscous coupling makes the split happen.

So, the test method of holding the rear output, driving the front output with a torque wrench and having the trans in neutral (to allow it to move) is like testing a conventional posi rear with one tire on the ground, spinning one tire by torque wrench, and allowing the driveshaft / pinion to spin. It took a while for me to understand it, and I are an engineer...

Hopefully that helps explain what's going on inside and makes some sense.


If a mod wanted to go back to October 09 and try to find the post with the pictures for the T-case v-clutch torque test made by DaveP, and restore it into this thread, he will leave it up. The pic links should still work.

I dunno what's up, but all the posts made by DaveP in the following link are all gone:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71122&highlight=viscous
Why? Without the postings he made (which had some very good info) the thread makes no F$%(ing sense what so ever. What's going on? If half of the posts are going to go poof, why bother posting in the first place? Nobody can search and learn anything if the information disappears....

'JustDreamin'
 
T

Ty0331

Guest
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

Nobody has taken the time to explain what's going on in there, and the function of those bits.

http://www.syty.net/forums/showpost.php?p=623336&postcount=26

There's just ONE of dozens and dozens of posts on the T-case made by DaveP over the years. Rather disingenuous of you to say "no one has ever explained how it works before...". And that in a nutshell is why he deletes his posts. No one seems to read or learn from them in the first place while the thread is fresh, much less search for them later. So it doesn't matter if they get deleted. Keeps his post-count low. He will never be accused of being a post-whore. And DaveP does know how these T-cases work. But as evidenced by the above "no one has ever..." the expertise, and attempt to educate, seems to have gone unnoticed.

I'm curious: How many of these T-cases have you owned, and / or opened up and worked on? How many vicious clutches have you checked by getting under the truck and pulling on a bar? I'm not bagging on you, for the most part your explanation is pretty good. There's just a bit of hesitance that hints at a lack of hands-on experience.

I currently own 3 vehichles with BW4471 T-cases. I have owned three others in the past. I've had at least 6 of these apart, and have tugged on well over 50 V-clutches while installed in the case, or in the truck. At a SyTy gathering in SoCal in 1998 I rolled my jack under 15 SyTys in attendance, and checked the resistance of each V-clutch. After that exercise, I have a pretty good idea of what a 'normal' v-clutch "feels" like. It's just hard to convey that experience in a post. But over the years I've tried.

It's discouraging to read that people don't learn much from the attempts to transfer this knowledge. Especially given the time, effort, and sincerity with which it is offered. I accept that this is a failure of my teaching ability and skill. My participation is now greatly reduced from former levels, and under an alias as well, but I'll still try from time to time.

Anonymous SyTy Peep
 

'JustDreamin'

Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: What is the best way to test the TC?

http://www.syty.net/forums/showpost.php?p=623336&postcount=26

There's just ONE of dozens and dozens of posts on the T-case made by DaveP over the years. Rather disingenuous of you to say "no one has ever explained how it works before...". And that in a nutshell is why he deletes his posts. No one seems to read or learn from them in the first place while the thread is fresh, much less search for them later. So it doesn't matter if they get deleted. Keeps his post-count low. He will never be accused of being a post-whore. And DaveP does know how these T-cases work. But as evidenced by the above "no one has ever..." the expertise, and attempt to educate, seems to have gone unnoticed.

I'm curious: How many of these T-cases have you owned, and / or opened up and worked on? How many vicious clutches have you checked by getting under the truck and pulling on a bar? I'm not bagging on you, for the most part your explanation is pretty good. There's just a bit of hesitance that hints at a lack of hands-on experience.

I currently own 3 vehichles with BW4471 T-cases. I have owned three others in the past. I've had at least 6 of these apart, and have tugged on well over 50 V-clutches while installed in the case, or in the truck. At a SyTy gathering in SoCal in 1998 I rolled my jack under 15 SyTys in attendance, and checked the resistance of each V-clutch. After that exercise, I have a pretty good idea of what a 'normal' v-clutch "feels" like. It's just hard to convey that experience in a post. But over the years I've tried.

It's discouraging to read that people don't learn much from the attempts to transfer this knowledge. Especially given the time, effort, and sincerity with which it is offered. I accept that this is a failure of my teaching ability and skill. My participation is now greatly reduced from former levels, and under an alias as well, but I'll still try from time to time.

Anonymous SyTy Peep


Maybe its disingenuous or maybe more correctly, I'm just flat out wrong.

What should have been stated is "Nobody has taken the time to explain what's going on in there, and the function of those bits, and made it a sticky at the top of this section". I've been surfing this board for a couple years now (looks like 6yrs actually), and I know that up until probably 6 months or so I couldn't have told you exactly how the darned thing worked (correctly at least). Maybe that means this mechanical engineer is just slow, I certainly know I'm silly but that's another matter.

And you're right, DaveP explained it some then (6 mos ago or so), and I've looked at the exploded views posted by George Blake (when he was selling the billet planetaries) and I figured out for myself what / how it was doing what it does.


There's a couple of basic problems here:
1.) One guy with knowledge shares it, and then goes back and deletes half of his posts. That's not all that useful. Means that if you search for something you come up with a bunch of threads that don't make any sense 'cause half the stuff is deleted. It just makes things that much harder to comprehend. Making dozens and dozens of posts and then deleting some of them, means that he may as well have not posted half of them in the first place. If you don't learn from history, you're bound to repeat it. And we're repeating it, again and again, as evidenced by the fact that owners are still asking questions about "how do you test the tcase" or "can I dyno test with the front propshaft removed"?

2.) Problem # 2 is that there isn't a sticky in this section that explains how the darn thing works. That novel concept might just eliminate a bunch of confusion, and the need for this discussion. Not sure how to get a useful sticky created, just pointing out that there seems to be a need (this thread is a prime example)


I can say without any hesitation, that I don't own one of these transfer cases, nor do I own a Sy or Ty, so it's a bit harder to slide under them and tinker. I originally started researching on here to learn about the BW4472 tcase / AWD systems in these trucks in preparation for a project of my own. What I found is that there was some information, but by and large it seemed most owners treated it as a black box. Ultimately, I ended up building a truck that didn't utilize the BW4472. Why? Because at the time, the only 4L80E solution (which is what I wanted to use) involved tearing the trans apart and replacing the output shaft for a cut down resplined unit (obviously that problem has since been resolved with custom tcase parts available from a couple sources). I wasn't willing to do that, since the NV146 / 246 was an easier solution (bolts in / compatible with the electronics in my truck / etc) with similar costs.

That said, I actually have a project in mind that will use the BW4472. Haven't figured out whether I will be able to use it as 32 spline or not, but that will depend upon the T56 trans I want to put ahead of it and the SSR T56 output shaft to make it happen (which is rumored to be slightly oversize relative to a standard 32 spline shaft). And thanks to this board, I know that 32 spline bits are available (at least this week) and that while a T56 doesn't mate up using factory pieces, it is possible (Robert Lone's truck as an example) to make it happen.


I appreciate you being on here, and sharing what you know, because its how we all learn. Don't knock yourself about not teaching well, just the act of sharing is teaching. The take away from this is that the drivetrain section really ought to have a sticky about the tcases and the answers to commonly asked questions. I'm not sure who has the time and information to create such a thing, I guess that's why we don't have one.

Hope you have a great day, keep sharing, and hope there aren't any hard feelings.

'JustDreamin'
 
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