cloneman315
Active member
for u guys that are doing trans installes on the ground like me how are u doing it?areu bolting the trans and tc in a s one unit or first the trans then the tc
trans install
- Thread starter cloneman315
- Start date
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: trans install
I usually do the trans then the transfer case. That way you can clear the crossmember in the back easier. It's only 5 bolts. Not as bad as you think.
I usually do the trans then the transfer case. That way you can clear the crossmember in the back easier. It's only 5 bolts. Not as bad as you think.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
thats what i was thinking thanks george,hey is there anything we can do to help make the transfer case live ex special fluid additive etc parts we can add ?
thats what i was thinking thanks george,hey is there anything we can do to help make the transfer case live ex special fluid additive etc parts we can add ?
bezerk
New member
Re: trans install
you might want to put your truck on yackstads, and have a rolling lifter and make a plate for it so it holds the tranny and transfer case, i did that twice alone, and it worked like a charm.
be prepped for some acing muscles the next day when you only have 2 feet to move around.
you might want to put your truck on yackstads, and have a rolling lifter and make a plate for it so it holds the tranny and transfer case, i did that twice alone, and it worked like a charm.
be prepped for some acing muscles the next day when you only have 2 feet to move around.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
oh im sure looks like i will be trying to bench press mine in
oh im sure looks like i will be trying to bench press mine in
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Re: trans install
BTW, everybody,
I have installed ~ 6 AT's and always had trouble getting the trans on the jack out from under the car, or and back in, when it was on a normal trans jack. If U have 2 people it is NBD, but it is damned tough to lift the 150-200 # trans onto the jack by yourself laying on your back under the car.
I always wondered if those low motorcycle jacks would work. I tried it and it worked !
BTW, everybody,
I have installed ~ 6 AT's and always had trouble getting the trans on the jack out from under the car, or and back in, when it was on a normal trans jack. If U have 2 people it is NBD, but it is damned tough to lift the 150-200 # trans onto the jack by yourself laying on your back under the car.
I always wondered if those low motorcycle jacks would work. I tried it and it worked !
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
hmm i have one in my shop i might just try that good thought
hmm i have one in my shop i might just try that good thought
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: trans install
All you can do to the transfer case is disassemble it and cryo the input/output shafts, planetary...basically the hard parts....NOT the viscous clutch. You can cryo the chain as well. If you are really gonna race it, try to get a 32 spline output shaft for it and when you disassemble it, make sure it has a 4 pinion planetary set in it. I've seen one GM warranty replacement transfer case that had a 3 pinion in it for whatever reason.
All you can do to the transfer case is disassemble it and cryo the input/output shafts, planetary...basically the hard parts....NOT the viscous clutch. You can cryo the chain as well. If you are really gonna race it, try to get a 32 spline output shaft for it and when you disassemble it, make sure it has a 4 pinion planetary set in it. I've seen one GM warranty replacement transfer case that had a 3 pinion in it for whatever reason.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
so basic just leave it alone till it breaks?
so basic just leave it alone till it breaks?
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
this is true
this is true
SY2932
Administrator
Re: trans install
While I have done a *few* swaps in my time with help, most have them have been by myself. My method is as follows:
First off, do yourself a BIG favor and buy a transmission jack for roughly the price that you would pay for an "adapter" to use your floor jack as a transmission jack. It makes manuevering the transmission under the truck SO much easier because it has swivel casters on all four corners instead on just one end like a floor jack.
"Every syty owner needs one of these..."
Even with your average jack stands fully extended, you will discover that the truck still won't be high enough to get the transmission out from under the truck and vise versa. If you have a nice aftermarket transmission pan, you may want to swap it out with the stock one so that I doesn't get banged up in the process of the pull. You are going to have to drain the transmission anyhow so, just take it off. You can slide it out from under the truck on a piece of plywood or cardboard to protect the pan if need be.
"Transmission carnage, BTDT three times so far for me, five times for others..."
The "trick" to get the transmission on and off the jack by yourself is as follows. You will want to have several short lengths of 4X4's and 2X4's on hand to act as shims to shore it up as you raise of lower it off the transmission jack. Getting if off is easy, all you have to do is put the appropiate blocks under the tail shaft so that the topmost one is close to just touching the bottom of the tail shaft. On the bellhousing end, put a few blocks under your elbow so that you can get your palm under the "peak" of the bellhousing. Pushing up on the bellhousing will make the transmission tilt back on the blocks under the tailshaft. Thus allowing you to slide the trans jack out from under the transmission so that you can set it down. If you don't think that you can hold the transmission up long enough to slide the jack out from under it, don't sweat it. Just slide a 2X4 under your elbow as soon as the push the transmission up high enough to tilt it back. At that point, you won't be staining your muscles as the weight will be supported by your bones.
That's getting it off the transmission jack. Getting it back on requires the same procedure. Start off by putting a block of wood just under the tail shaft and using the same "push up on the bellhousing" technique outlined above, slide a block of wood under the front of the transmission pan. Now here's the easy part. Laying flat on you back under the truck, grab the top of the peak on the bellhousing and pull staight down and you will be able to lift the tail shaft off the block in the back. The bellhousing acts like a big lever so that you can put another block under the tail shaft. Alternate between shoring up the tail shaft and the blocks under the front of the transmission pan until the transmission is high enough that you can get the transmission jack under the pan. Usually, I just push all the blocks that were under the tail shaft out of the way with the transmission jack itself. Just make sure that you keep the blocks under the front of the pan far enough forward that you can get the transmission jack under there when the time comes. The effort to do this is laughable and I never dread having to do a transmission by myself.
The transfer case *only* weights around 70 pounds so, you shouldn't have too much trouble installing it by yourself. If you didn't drain it and it tips the right way, you may get a ATF shower... Get a new gasket, part number 1564-2511 to go between the transfercase and transmission too. The gasket has an orientation so make sure that yo can get all the bolts started before you button it back up.
Just a few more "tips", make sure that your torque converter is FULLY SEATED on the pump of else you WILL damage it using the bell housing bolts to "crush" it in place:
"Fully seated torque converter. With a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing, the distance to the mounting pads should be approximately 1 inch."
Also, be sure to use Loctite 262 (the red stuff) on the torque converter to flexplate bolts so that they don't loosen up.
If you still have the stock downpipe bracket, trim back the sheet metal while you have the transmission out to make getting that topmost stud out MUCH easier the *next* time you have to pul the transmission:
"If you have ever pulled your own transmission before, you know what's up with this. Primed and painted afterwards..."
And last but certainly not least if your previous transmission grenaded, be sure to FLUSH your lines and stock cooler or else you risk running shrapnel through your freshly rebuilt transmission:
"How transmission lines and coolers get flushed..."
On one pull that I helped with, the lines and stock cooler were so plugged with debris that nothing would flow through them. On another, the old ATF was so burnt that it came out as black as ink and it took several quarts to flush out. HTH's
While I have done a *few* swaps in my time with help, most have them have been by myself. My method is as follows:
First off, do yourself a BIG favor and buy a transmission jack for roughly the price that you would pay for an "adapter" to use your floor jack as a transmission jack. It makes manuevering the transmission under the truck SO much easier because it has swivel casters on all four corners instead on just one end like a floor jack.
"Every syty owner needs one of these..."
Even with your average jack stands fully extended, you will discover that the truck still won't be high enough to get the transmission out from under the truck and vise versa. If you have a nice aftermarket transmission pan, you may want to swap it out with the stock one so that I doesn't get banged up in the process of the pull. You are going to have to drain the transmission anyhow so, just take it off. You can slide it out from under the truck on a piece of plywood or cardboard to protect the pan if need be.
"Transmission carnage, BTDT three times so far for me, five times for others..."
The "trick" to get the transmission on and off the jack by yourself is as follows. You will want to have several short lengths of 4X4's and 2X4's on hand to act as shims to shore it up as you raise of lower it off the transmission jack. Getting if off is easy, all you have to do is put the appropiate blocks under the tail shaft so that the topmost one is close to just touching the bottom of the tail shaft. On the bellhousing end, put a few blocks under your elbow so that you can get your palm under the "peak" of the bellhousing. Pushing up on the bellhousing will make the transmission tilt back on the blocks under the tailshaft. Thus allowing you to slide the trans jack out from under the transmission so that you can set it down. If you don't think that you can hold the transmission up long enough to slide the jack out from under it, don't sweat it. Just slide a 2X4 under your elbow as soon as the push the transmission up high enough to tilt it back. At that point, you won't be staining your muscles as the weight will be supported by your bones.
That's getting it off the transmission jack. Getting it back on requires the same procedure. Start off by putting a block of wood just under the tail shaft and using the same "push up on the bellhousing" technique outlined above, slide a block of wood under the front of the transmission pan. Now here's the easy part. Laying flat on you back under the truck, grab the top of the peak on the bellhousing and pull staight down and you will be able to lift the tail shaft off the block in the back. The bellhousing acts like a big lever so that you can put another block under the tail shaft. Alternate between shoring up the tail shaft and the blocks under the front of the transmission pan until the transmission is high enough that you can get the transmission jack under the pan. Usually, I just push all the blocks that were under the tail shaft out of the way with the transmission jack itself. Just make sure that you keep the blocks under the front of the pan far enough forward that you can get the transmission jack under there when the time comes. The effort to do this is laughable and I never dread having to do a transmission by myself.
The transfer case *only* weights around 70 pounds so, you shouldn't have too much trouble installing it by yourself. If you didn't drain it and it tips the right way, you may get a ATF shower... Get a new gasket, part number 1564-2511 to go between the transfercase and transmission too. The gasket has an orientation so make sure that yo can get all the bolts started before you button it back up.
Just a few more "tips", make sure that your torque converter is FULLY SEATED on the pump of else you WILL damage it using the bell housing bolts to "crush" it in place:
"Fully seated torque converter. With a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing, the distance to the mounting pads should be approximately 1 inch."
Also, be sure to use Loctite 262 (the red stuff) on the torque converter to flexplate bolts so that they don't loosen up.
If you still have the stock downpipe bracket, trim back the sheet metal while you have the transmission out to make getting that topmost stud out MUCH easier the *next* time you have to pul the transmission:
"If you have ever pulled your own transmission before, you know what's up with this. Primed and painted afterwards..."
And last but certainly not least if your previous transmission grenaded, be sure to FLUSH your lines and stock cooler or else you risk running shrapnel through your freshly rebuilt transmission:
"How transmission lines and coolers get flushed..."
On one pull that I helped with, the lines and stock cooler were so plugged with debris that nothing would flow through them. On another, the old ATF was so burnt that it came out as black as ink and it took several quarts to flush out. HTH's
Last edited:
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
dude great info and pics,still not looking forward to it lol
dude great info and pics,still not looking forward to it lol
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: trans install
Don't underestimate what cryo can do. Give Diversified Cryogenics a call.
$100 minimum and $5 a pound plus shipping there and back. Well worth the investment. I've used the a LOT and have never had any problems.
Big thing is look for that 32 spline output shaft if yours doesn't already have one.
Don't underestimate what cryo can do. Give Diversified Cryogenics a call.
$100 minimum and $5 a pound plus shipping there and back. Well worth the investment. I've used the a LOT and have never had any problems.
Big thing is look for that 32 spline output shaft if yours doesn't already have one.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
why george some came thorugh with different splines,i have a built trans i havent put it in yet,is there more than one spline numbers on the out put shaft
why george some came thorugh with different splines,i have a built trans i havent put it in yet,is there more than one spline numbers on the out put shaft
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: trans install
All 700s have a 27 spline output shaft.
I'm talking about the transfer case's output shaft.
Why Borg Warner did some with 27 and some with 32 is beyond me.
Why they put 3 pinion planetaries in some and 4 pinion planetaries in others...I don't know.
Kinda like why did GM put 16 element sprags in 4L80's when a 34 is available and drops right in? Maybe it saves them a couple dollars here and there.
All 700s have a 27 spline output shaft.
I'm talking about the transfer case's output shaft.
Why Borg Warner did some with 27 and some with 32 is beyond me.
Why they put 3 pinion planetaries in some and 4 pinion planetaries in others...I don't know.
Kinda like why did GM put 16 element sprags in 4L80's when a 34 is available and drops right in? Maybe it saves them a couple dollars here and there.
cloneman315
Active member
Re: trans install
so u mean my rear axle yoke to transfer case splines?
so u mean my rear axle yoke to transfer case splines?