Seating the converter & trans vent?

[4C FED]

I've successfully done this numerous times before but it was while the tranny was out.

Last night on the Ty I decided to bolt up the x-fer case to the trans before installing it then, like a trapeze act, I manuvered the assembly into place. Then I installed the converter.
Well, I'm having a heck of a time getting it to fully seat. I guess a new converter can be that way cause when I tried to install the old converter on the old trans I had it on in about 30 secs.

My question is; If I have the converter pushed in as far as it will go, if I just keep turning the converter, will it eventually seat? Or, do I need to pull it out some, turn it & push it back in & repeat until seated?
I turned, wiggled, pulled it out, turned some more & repeat, but no love.

Lastly, I didn't notice until I had everything assembled that the plastic vent tube was missing. I pulled one off of another tranny I had sitting around and in stalled it, but the hole where the tube goes into looks different between the 2 trannies. The one that is missing the vent tube looks to have a barb inside the hole. The other trans just has a hole & the tube I removed from it has a barbed skirt to hold it in place.
Do I need to have that freakin' tube in? Because after getting the trans in place last night, the tube popped off.:rant:

 

[TYTILIDIE]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

The barb youre seeing is probably what broke off inside there. You could get it out with a pick and put a new one in. The convertor should go in further if you keep turning it and pushing it at the same time.

 

[denny]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

If the turing and pushing don't work, you can pull it out about 1/2 " and push it back in a bit harder. (this has nothing to do with sex)
Also try hold up the TC weight with one hand while turning and pusing with the other.

Denny

 

[4C FED]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

The problem with the vent tube now it is a real beotch to get at. I'm not sure I have the patience to sit under 4k lbs that is suspended 4 ft in the air while trying to fish that little POS hose out of there.
I REALLY had to pull on the one that I removed from the spare trans. Maybe I could use my heat gun to melt the piece that is broken off in there then remove it?

I'll spend some more time on the converter tonight, I was tired and losing my patience after 15 minutes of trying, so I called it a night.

 

[artisticent]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

Hey 4CFED-- I have nothing constuctive to add here accept I am almost sure that my torqu converter is finished. The truck now dies and has 40% launch with a shudder and today upon avccelerating a little puff of smoke came up through my shifter and in to the truck. Ill keep my on your thread for tips as I intend to order a new TC and inspect the tranny pan for debris(fingers crossed)
Thanks
Nathan

 

[typhoon92]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

Not sure if this helps you?
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35207&highlight=Torque+converter

 

[SY2932]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

Ditto what Dave said. There were a few folks on here last year who learned about the consequences of improperly installing a torque converter. One thing that will help you out quite a bit is determining the orientation of the lugs that need to engage the notches on the torque converter. If you didn't make a note of this before you got the transmission under the truck, check it with an inspection mirror. Then position the notches in the approximate position noted and try to install it.

Attempting to seat a torque converter without pulling it slightly off the input shaft prior to rotating it, won't work. The reason is the splines on the input shaft have to be indexed properly with respect to the two notches on the torque converter. If they aren't, you are just turning the torque converter "on top" of the input shaft. Being that the torque converter isn't lined up to be seated to begin with, it will never "drop down" to seat itself...

It can be challenging enough installing a torque converter in the middle of the garage. It becomes even more so when you are under the truck wrestling with it. Most converters are close to 30 pounds and if you filled it with ATF prior to the install like you should have, they can make a huge mess in a hurry. Of course all of this is a great recipe to seriously annoy even a seasoned syty veteran...

With regards to the vent tube, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it. It's just a plastic tube 2-3 inches long that if you start puking ATF out will *somewhat* limit the mess that you are going to make to only one side of the transmission. Without it, ATF will *could* run down both sides of the transmission case. If that is unacceptable, you are going to have to replace it.

 

[4C FED]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

Oh, I'm quiet familiar with where the torque converter sits when fully seated & not to use the bellhousing bolts to pull everything together.

So, last night I spent another 15 minutes cussing, wiggling, turning & cussing until I finally got it seated.
Yes, the weight of the converter + 3 quarts of fluid make it a bitch when you're on your back and have no leverage.
I'll make sure I put the converter on while the tranny is still out of the truck next time.

Then I spent the next 2.5 hours swearing @ how many different sockets, wrenches & extensions you need to work on these retarded trucks.:rant:Up, down, up, down. There's no reason to go to the gym when you have a SyTy to work on.

Meh, it's in. All that's left to do is verify correct converter stab depth, install crossmember, driveshaft, fill fluids & hookup the tranny pressure gauge. :tup:
And.....hopefully the tranny will work correctly after this rebuild. If it doesn't my garage might burst into flames tonight or :shoot:

I decided, F' the vent tube.

On a side note: I noticed the rear U-joint on my driveshaft is pretty tight, so I'd like to replace it.
How can I replace the U-joint with the usual tools?

 

[SY2932]

Re: Seating the converter & trans vent?

GM uses some funky plastic to retain the caps on the U-joints. If you look closely, you will see a small hole on the side of the cap on both sides. My bud showed me the easiest way to get the plastic out is to lay the end of the driveshaft in the heat of a torpedo heater. Being that you are out West, you prolly don't have one of those so, get yourself a propane torch if you don't already have one. Heat up the end until the plastic "pops" out of the hole. If is pretty forceful when it comes out and it will sounds like one of those party snappers when it does. Having a hydraulic press makes life easy but a decent bench vise will do too. Impact sockets make great "punches" to drive or press the cups out. I use them to press the new cups in as well.