R134a Conversion
- Thread starter jimmyz79
- Start date
ParTyBoy
New member
Re: R134a Conversion
First off it's illegal to vent R12 into the atmosphere.. If you don't have the propper equipment or certification, or understanding of servicing the seals/valves in the system then I recommend you to leave it to a proffesional.. Refilling with r12 might be cheaper than a straight conversion.. and if you decide on the conversion then see if the shop will buy back what R12 you have left...
jimmyz79 said:
First off it's illegal to vent R12 into the atmosphere.. If you don't have the propper equipment or certification, or understanding of servicing the seals/valves in the system then I recommend you to leave it to a proffesional.. Refilling with r12 might be cheaper than a straight conversion.. and if you decide on the conversion then see if the shop will buy back what R12 you have left...
Tydriver
TurboLS6 Powa'
Re: R134a Conversion
You are correct, atleast to do it CORRECTLY anyhow.
Do a search on the WWW for R12 to 134a conversions.. There is alot of information out there. From what I have read or been told there is alot more to doing it than that KIT.
Heres what I know:
1. Change the Drier Assy (R12 oil isn't compatible with 134a oil), also the dessicant is prolly getting old and useless if its been in use for any time..
2. Change the Orifice tube assy... Something different with the flow rates
3. Have the system Evacuated professionally, reason for this moreover than making the tree-huggers happy is, when you evac the system it also removes any internal moisture that maybe accumulating inside the system, as you lower the atmospheric pressure water boils easier and at lower temps. This allows regular ambient temps to be enough to remove most of the moisture in the system therefore preventing "FREEZE-UPS" etc..
4. Change the fittings using the setup you more than likely saw in the store, this allows for the correct sized gauges to fit. (ie the 134a gauges vs the R12 gauges)..
5 <OPTIONAL> Change out the condensor with a larger one, supposedly the R12 refrigerant is more effective than 134a, allowing a smaller condendsor, I've heard claims that people recommend changing to a larger unit. I myself would skip this step and just complete the first 4 listed above.
Sure you can just vent the system to atmosphere and screw on a couple of schrader type fittings and refill it.. Problem is, overall performance will suffer due to mix-matched refrigerants and incorrect parts.
Hope this helps.. Its really quite easy to accomplish and in the oncoming years you will enjoy the ease of rolling up to any autoparts store and topping the system off with ease for CHEAP.
jimmyz79 said:
You are correct, atleast to do it CORRECTLY anyhow.
jimmyz79 said:
Do a search on the WWW for R12 to 134a conversions.. There is alot of information out there. From what I have read or been told there is alot more to doing it than that KIT.
Heres what I know:
1. Change the Drier Assy (R12 oil isn't compatible with 134a oil), also the dessicant is prolly getting old and useless if its been in use for any time..
2. Change the Orifice tube assy... Something different with the flow rates
3. Have the system Evacuated professionally, reason for this moreover than making the tree-huggers happy is, when you evac the system it also removes any internal moisture that maybe accumulating inside the system, as you lower the atmospheric pressure water boils easier and at lower temps. This allows regular ambient temps to be enough to remove most of the moisture in the system therefore preventing "FREEZE-UPS" etc..
4. Change the fittings using the setup you more than likely saw in the store, this allows for the correct sized gauges to fit. (ie the 134a gauges vs the R12 gauges)..
5 <OPTIONAL> Change out the condensor with a larger one, supposedly the R12 refrigerant is more effective than 134a, allowing a smaller condendsor, I've heard claims that people recommend changing to a larger unit. I myself would skip this step and just complete the first 4 listed above.
Sure you can just vent the system to atmosphere and screw on a couple of schrader type fittings and refill it.. Problem is, overall performance will suffer due to mix-matched refrigerants and incorrect parts.
Hope this helps.. Its really quite easy to accomplish and in the oncoming years you will enjoy the ease of rolling up to any autoparts store and topping the system off with ease for CHEAP.
Coloty
New member
On my daily driver S10 Blazer, the system was empty. So I took it to a shop and had them pull a vacuum on it to check for leaks and there were none, so I bought the Interdynamics r12 to r134a retro kit for like 30 bucks. The new style PAG oil is NOT compatible with the r12 mineral oil, but esther oil IS and will work with mineral oil still in the system. The refrigerants themselves (r12 and r134a) are not compatible in any way. If you do not have to open the system to repair a leak just have a shop pull a vacuum on it for at least an hour to remove all the moisture and recharge it with 80% of the volume of r12 the system should hold. Our full system capacity is 2.5 lbs or 40 ozs of r12 so that means roughly 34-36 ozs of r134a is needed. The new cans of r134a already have a leak sealer and esther oil in them. If you have to open the system I would recommend you change the receiver/dryer at a minimum to one that has descicant compatible with r134a. The orifice tube is not necessary to change unless your compressor shelled on you..... sending debris throughout the lines. Compressors should be fine unless they are noisey and it bothers you. I've done LOTS of reading on this and been through a couple A/C systems in the past year including my Ty which I re-used the r12 in once I replaced my entire system. I wish I would have saved the 250.00 bucks worth of r12 and converted then to r134a. So, to answer your original question, if your system is empty and leak free it really is as simple as the box makes it sound. Also, if there is any r12 in your system certainly take it to a shop to evacuate first and help out our environment, they might even pay you for it. I hope this helps out.
leroy
Donating Member
How to get R12 free
How to get R12 free
Most major communities have a household hazardous waste program. A lot of them use volunteer labor. Volunteer once in awhile, and you may be able to get some R12. Xylene, or toluene is often brought in as well.
You don't have to be a "tree-hugger" to help out. I'm more of a Sahara club member than a Sierra Club member.
YMMV,
Jim
How to get R12 free
Most major communities have a household hazardous waste program. A lot of them use volunteer labor. Volunteer once in awhile, and you may be able to get some R12. Xylene, or toluene is often brought in as well.
You don't have to be a "tree-hugger" to help out. I'm more of a Sahara club member than a Sierra Club member.
YMMV,
Jim
jimmyz79
Re-Member
Thanks all who replied.
No I would never vent the old R-12, even if there is any left in the system. I was just "venting" at the EPA. In this day & age, you can't tell me that some sinthetic compound is not compatable with the old R-12. I remember when they said that sinthetic motor oil would not be compatable with petroleum oil when it first came out. Now we have blended stuff right on the shelf.
Found this on the GN site. it was written by Jim Stoltz, who was until recently a TY guy. Good reading for anyone looking to save some dinero'.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/airconditioning/R12toR134a.html
No I would never vent the old R-12, even if there is any left in the system. I was just "venting" at the EPA. In this day & age, you can't tell me that some sinthetic compound is not compatable with the old R-12. I remember when they said that sinthetic motor oil would not be compatable with petroleum oil when it first came out. Now we have blended stuff right on the shelf.
Found this on the GN site. it was written by Jim Stoltz, who was until recently a TY guy. Good reading for anyone looking to save some dinero'.
http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/airconditioning/R12toR134a.html