Propshafts??????
- Thread starter sy#2716
- Start date
I am using a modified Bravada shaft from Dynotech. No vibration at 120mph+ and it is built stronger than stock. Kind of expensive at $500. I've heard mixed results about the cheaper Napa shaft. Some people are having custom ones built by driveshaft shops. It is very important that the length and balance are correct. An out of balance shaft will piss you off and self destruct in short order. Most of the custom ones get rid of the double cardan and the front CV joint.
ParTyBoy
New member
Sy769 said:
I bought the new Dynotech/Dustan unit.. having a small problem with the tranny linkage right now.. Spoke to Al about it and occasionally a few syclones will have contact issues that effects the gear shifter... This is most noticeable by sticking your shifter into 2nd gear and watching the shifter act like a bucking bronco back and forth.. Working on a solution to this now... Also, chance are you will have a problem with the rear of the tranny linkage bracket... This is right at the distance inbetween the rear of the bracket and the shaft ... That can be fixed by grounding off a 1/4 of the bracket... Only other consideration is that currently you can't use Phil Chivers front propshaft loop with this new unit.. Not enough free space...
Asside from these small problems though the Dustan/Dynotech propshaft is a nice unit.. 8)
10secTy
Sy-Ty builder and Tuner
I can get a propshaft made for ya. It would be exaclty the same as the one used on TurboTonys truck. No CV joints just a front and rear u-joint. The shaft is a complete bolt on and fits with no mods. The price is $400. If you want I can take some pics of it for you.
Nolan Nykyforuk
TurboV6@telusplanet.net
780-818-7483
Nolan Nykyforuk
TurboV6@telusplanet.net
780-818-7483
Without the CV joint you will experience a slight reasonant vibration from the front shaft that will drive you crazy. My stock 4x4 S10 has a front shaft that comes with a normal U-joint on both ends, and when the truck is shifted in 4WD you can feel the vibration of the shaft as it rotates (the shaft doesn't rotate when in 2WD mode, so no vibration is felt in normal hwy driving). The Bravada, AWD AstroVan, Syclone, & Typhoon all have the CV joint to eliminate that reasonant vibration since they operate with the front shaft always rotating due to the AWD function. You might want to rethink eliminating the CV joint. The double cardan joint, on the otherhand. should be eliminated as it is the weak link in the shaft that normally is the first to break. It really isn't necessary on a Syclone or Typhoon anyway, as it's normal use is to reduce vibration on highly lifted trucks that experience severe angularity problems of the driveshaft. In fact, on all of the later generation Bravada's and auto 4WD SUV's ('98 up) GM eliminated the double cardan joint, but they still left the CV joint in!
No, the later model shafts have a slightly different length and they also have the CV joint on the transfer case end of the shaft with a slip on splined connection (rather than the bolt on flange type that the Sy/Ty's have). The differential case attachment is also done with clips over the U-joint (just like the normal 4x4 S10 is done), and not via a bolt-on flange like the Sy/Ty's as well. If a Sy/Ty guy were to change the front differential yoke out from the flange type to the standard S10 4x4 U-joint clip type, and have a bolt-on flange welded on the CV joint end to attach to the Borg Warner AWD transfer case that is used in the Sy/Ty's, then the later style driveshaft arrangement could be used. The later style is stronger and has more clearance to the transmission due to the use of a solid 1 1/4" dia shaft instead of a hollow tube.
I had a custom proshaft built by a local shop. He said it is much stronger than the stock unit. It did away with the front section and just has a universal and a slip yolk. It vibrates a little under hard acceleration. I think if I drove it everyday the vibration would drive me crazy.
Lynn D. Brown
New member
Propshaft and CV
Propshaft and CV
Larry and - Yes, the "both" is confusing.
Amazingly, I still have what I think is my originaI propshaft after
~ 100 K, but will be beffing up the engine considerably, so I guess
I will also be needing one before too long. My shaft has a "Dynotech"
plate on it (# 109050) - did the stockers have Dynotech on them ?
My conclusion from all that youse guys said is that we need the CV in
the front, but not the double U joint in the back - And I guess we want
a stronger U joint since that is where they break. Is that correct ?
Do we need to beef up the CV also - has anyone broken it there ? I guess
there is grease in the CV - but I see no way to grease it. And the rubber
cover over the joint is banded on like typical stock CV's. If the rubber
tears can we replace it and regrease ?
Propshaft and CV
Larry and - Yes, the "both" is confusing.
Amazingly, I still have what I think is my originaI propshaft after
~ 100 K, but will be beffing up the engine considerably, so I guess
I will also be needing one before too long. My shaft has a "Dynotech"
plate on it (# 109050) - did the stockers have Dynotech on them ?
My conclusion from all that youse guys said is that we need the CV in
the front, but not the double U joint in the back - And I guess we want
a stronger U joint since that is where they break. Is that correct ?
Do we need to beef up the CV also - has anyone broken it there ? I guess
there is grease in the CV - but I see no way to grease it. And the rubber
cover over the joint is banded on like typical stock CV's. If the rubber
tears can we replace it and regrease ?
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
i remember reading a post a few months back about "brandons heavy duty" propshaft, and heard no complaints about vibration at all... yet so far everyone in this post says shafts made in a similar manner vibrate...
im also in the market for a new propshaft, and personally id be willing to put up with a little bit vibration if it was something that would last. i traded emails with a guy from dynotech quite a while ago, and he said they were in the process of making a new shaft for our trucks that eliminated the whole boot and double cardon set up... and cost around 450 or 500. ill drop them an email and follow up on that and let you guys know...
im also in the market for a new propshaft, and personally id be willing to put up with a little bit vibration if it was something that would last. i traded emails with a guy from dynotech quite a while ago, and he said they were in the process of making a new shaft for our trucks that eliminated the whole boot and double cardon set up... and cost around 450 or 500. ill drop them an email and follow up on that and let you guys know...
truckins10
Member
I bought the NAPA shaft over a year ago and am happy with it. I think it was just over 200 bucks. Its a strong shaft and it comes with a lifetime warrenty. But it does have a slight vibration at highway speeds. Good bang for the buck if you dont do much highway driving. Fern Sy#477
Daron
Active member
I had mine done about 2 months ago by a local shop. I was scared the stock shaft was going to grenade. They completely re-did it, balanced it and bailed on the stock style front joint. For the first 200 miles or so it would vibe a tad during full throttle runs. It is now perfect. No vibes during highway speeds or during WOT runs. It it also holding up to some aggressive launching...
However, if you dont know or trust a local shop, it is likely money well spent to get the Dynotech upgrade...
However, if you dont know or trust a local shop, it is likely money well spent to get the Dynotech upgrade...