truckins10
Member
When tryin to find the cause of a KR problem would disconnecting the turbo to intercooler hose and driving the truck with no boost be a good way to eliminate a KR problem because of boost?? FernSy#477
Idea for dignosting KR problem
- Thread starter truckins10
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leroy
Donating Member
I don't think that would tell you anything. If you didn't get knock, it could still be caused by a variety of problems under boost.
If you did get knock, it could still be caused by a variety of problems.
I haven't really followed your situation, but the first thing you need to do is make sure all the ignition components are in good shape. This includes checking the harmonic balancer marks for tdc.
Next check to make sure the fuel is adequate. A fuel pressure gauge is helpful. A wideband O2 is very helpful.
Correct any problems found. If it still knocks, check everything again. Then if it still knocks, consider oil consumption problems, and false knock situations.
There's lots in the archives about this kind of stuff.
HTH,
Jim
If you did get knock, it could still be caused by a variety of problems.
I haven't really followed your situation, but the first thing you need to do is make sure all the ignition components are in good shape. This includes checking the harmonic balancer marks for tdc.
Next check to make sure the fuel is adequate. A fuel pressure gauge is helpful. A wideband O2 is very helpful.
Correct any problems found. If it still knocks, check everything again. Then if it still knocks, consider oil consumption problems, and false knock situations.
There's lots in the archives about this kind of stuff.
HTH,
Jim
truckins10
Member
Jim,
everything on my truck has been changed. I wish there was someone in my area that would be willing to help me figure this out, its been over 6months. I vertified that the harmonic didnt spin and gfiving me false readings. FP is at 48 psi. Ignition is brand new. I went to a colder plug and it helped a bit. My knock is very inconsistant, one day it'll be 12 and another in will be 3 or 4. WTF???
everything on my truck has been changed. I wish there was someone in my area that would be willing to help me figure this out, its been over 6months. I vertified that the harmonic didnt spin and gfiving me false readings. FP is at 48 psi. Ignition is brand new. I went to a colder plug and it helped a bit. My knock is very inconsistant, one day it'll be 12 and another in will be 3 or 4. WTF???
leroy
Donating Member
How is your fuel pressure under boost?
Did you go to UR6 plugs?
How is your intercooler?
I've seen some higher mileage trucks that liked less advance than stock. I think oil consumption from pcv's or blowby was the biggest factor. 91 octane doesn't help things. (That's the highest most places have around here.)
Jim
Did you go to UR6 plugs?
How is your intercooler?
I've seen some higher mileage trucks that liked less advance than stock. I think oil consumption from pcv's or blowby was the biggest factor. 91 octane doesn't help things. (That's the highest most places have around here.)
Jim
truckins10
Member
FP under boost was good 4 or 5 months ago, but Im thinking of double checkin that.I went from ur5 to ur5ix to ur6. The ur6 seemed to help a bit, but like I said very inconsistant. After I installed them, I went and did about 8 WOT runs(truck was completely warmed up first), The first 2 or 3 runs Id knock 11-12 KR?? But the rest were under 5KR. Today while doin a few runs it'll knock 12KR most of the time, and Ill do it agin an itll only go to 4KR. WTF?????? Blows my mind. IC has had evry poss mod done to it, heat wraped, watterwetter, 3/4heater hose,upgraded pump, aux. lower cooler.??? Im running 94 octane and have timing retarded 2 degrees. Thankss for your help man, appreciate it.
truckins10
Member
yeh, I guess there is no easy solution. I live in Ontario, Canada. Its about 45mins from the buffalo, NY. Anyone?? Thanks for suggestions. Fern Sy#477
truckins10
Member
Jim, stock chip,mods.....
ugraded IC pump
3/4inch heater hose lines
heat wraped IC
aux. CAC
watterwetter
AFPR set at 48PSI
Walbro high flow pump
MSD coil
185 degree stat
IC pump hotwired
My boost is usually below 15psi, usually aroung12-13psi and only goes to 15psi at shifts. Not sure about the MATs after a run but at a cruise its 95, I think it goes up to 120-130?? Have to double check that. The truck shows no sign of burning oil. No blue smoke at startup, and TB pretty clean. Havent tried race fuel, that was my next step. One thing I noticed yesterday night while driving home was at WOT my Battery volts are at 11.8volts. Which fron searching in the archives found it should be a min of 13volts. Could this be my problem with Knock, The coil not getting enought power, probably the Fuel pump too. Im gonna try running two batterys today and see if that helps. Thanks again Jim. Fern Sy#477
ugraded IC pump
3/4inch heater hose lines
heat wraped IC
aux. CAC
watterwetter
AFPR set at 48PSI
Walbro high flow pump
MSD coil
185 degree stat
IC pump hotwired
My boost is usually below 15psi, usually aroung12-13psi and only goes to 15psi at shifts. Not sure about the MATs after a run but at a cruise its 95, I think it goes up to 120-130?? Have to double check that. The truck shows no sign of burning oil. No blue smoke at startup, and TB pretty clean. Havent tried race fuel, that was my next step. One thing I noticed yesterday night while driving home was at WOT my Battery volts are at 11.8volts. Which fron searching in the archives found it should be a min of 13volts. Could this be my problem with Knock, The coil not getting enought power, probably the Fuel pump too. Im gonna try running two batterys today and see if that helps. Thanks again Jim. Fern Sy#477
InvisiBill
Active member
In general, the battery is for key-off stuff. The alternator should be powering stuff while you're driving. A second battery can actually drain more power...
Maybe try a 160 stat too?
Maybe try a 160 stat too?
truckins10
Member
Yeh, I tried the two batterys hooked up today and it didnt help. Guess I should check the charging system. So the altenator keeps the truck running with power?? I heard of alot of people not being able to get into closed loop and rough idles with the 160m stat. Thats why I went with the 185????
Man i wonder how some of these myths get propagated. I have heard of a dozen weird stories like that with the thermostat.
Going to a 160, chances are your truck will still run warmer than 160.
It will go into closed loop.
If it idles rough in this configuration, it will idle rough warmer too. Most trucks I've seen that run cool have no idle problems, or they are unrelated.
What coolant temps do you usually see?
What kind of MAT #'s do you usuallly see?
Going to a 160, chances are your truck will still run warmer than 160.
It will go into closed loop.
If it idles rough in this configuration, it will idle rough warmer too. Most trucks I've seen that run cool have no idle problems, or they are unrelated.
What coolant temps do you usually see?
What kind of MAT #'s do you usuallly see?
truckins10
Member
Brain,
My truck stay at 185 the majority of the time, so I know the 185 stat is doin its job. MATs are usually at 130 after a run, 90-100 at a cruise. You think a 160 stat would hurt.???
Jim,
I have to get the charging system checked, but, I should be above 13volt, right?? I was reading through my scantool instuction manual(OTC), and it said in there that anything below 12.75volts could cause invalid readings?? After reading that I know that the low voltage is definitly a problem. I was thinkin of running a volt meter to the fuel pump and one to the ignition coil to see if the voltage is low at those points also(at WOT). What do you guys think? Hot wiring the ECM....what do you suggest, running a power wire straight from the battery?? This might only help if just the ECM was getting low voltage and not the rest of the truck(coil, fuel pump,ect) Any Ideas.....Fern Sy#477
My truck stay at 185 the majority of the time, so I know the 185 stat is doin its job. MATs are usually at 130 after a run, 90-100 at a cruise. You think a 160 stat would hurt.???
Jim,
I have to get the charging system checked, but, I should be above 13volt, right?? I was reading through my scantool instuction manual(OTC), and it said in there that anything below 12.75volts could cause invalid readings?? After reading that I know that the low voltage is definitly a problem. I was thinkin of running a volt meter to the fuel pump and one to the ignition coil to see if the voltage is low at those points also(at WOT). What do you guys think? Hot wiring the ECM....what do you suggest, running a power wire straight from the battery?? This might only help if just the ECM was getting low voltage and not the rest of the truck(coil, fuel pump,ect) Any Ideas.....Fern Sy#477
leroy
Donating Member
Get the alternator checked. You can do it yourself if you have a voltmeter. You should see 13.5 volts or so at the battery when the vehicle is running.
Barry had some good advice about checking all the grounds. I would suggest doing that, before hotwiring the ecm.
If you decide to hotwire, run a larger gauge fused wire from a good voltage source to the ecm power.
Jim
Barry had some good advice about checking all the grounds. I would suggest doing that, before hotwiring the ecm.
If you decide to hotwire, run a larger gauge fused wire from a good voltage source to the ecm power.
Jim