I have been doing some asking around. The syty.org responed with alot of info. I give the following credit to Rich Merlino for offering his collection of posts with regards to header coatings....
Thank you Rich!!
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John, here are some postings from other list members that I have collected,you be the judge. I believe I will be going with the Swain Coating,following the consensus.
HTH,
Rich Merlino
93 Ty White/White
Carson City, Nv.
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A Ty friend purchased a set of headers and wants to get them coated. He needs to know what the average operating temp is or egt. Basically, he needs to find out what temperature coating he will need. Any ideas?
Thanks,
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I would have HPC or Jet Hot do the coatings, and have them use their extreme heat coating.. It is a 2500 deg coating and only comes in black. The "ceramachrome" stuff is good to about 1300 deg. It looks much better than the extreme heat coating but will dull out in some areas due to the heat...I would have to say your EGTs in the driver side collector or crossover pipe
would have to be in the 1500-1700 deg range at WOT.
I guess it depends how picky you are and what sort of warranty the company provides. I know Jet Hot and HPC have excellent policies regarding re-coating and stuff...
hope that helps.
mike lee
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I asked Dennis about engine coatings yesterday for my Typhoon engine
rebuild. He really likes them although they are not cheap because they really work to decrease friction and heat as well as lessen detonation and increase longevity. He recommends Process coatings in Michigan
http://www.processcoatings.com/index.htm. They coated my custom 3" downpipe which came out awesome but I didn't realize how much of the engine internals could also be coated with measurable results.
Anyone considering any type of automotive coatings should check out their website. Maybe if enough SyTy'ers are interested we can get a discount rate. Or tell them you heard about them through PEP (Dennis's shop).
the Sandman
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As a thermal barrier, I believe the Swain Tech TBC-EX coating would be the hands down winner. It is applied as solid ceramic layers, and is .015 to .020 thick. Jet-Hot would have the advantage in regards to rust through (with carbon steel components) as the Swain Tech product can only be applied externally.
HTH,
-Erik.
Syclone #00837
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Actually, which is better, Swain coating or Jet-hot? I believe Paul H. did Swain on his downpipe and turbo.
I had some Skyline stuff done by Swain Tech....... very nice...very thick.... I
really like it
I had some stuff done for the Ty by Techline - didn't like it
Brian F had some stuff done by some other place - didnt like it
I would say Swain is the only way to go...
http://www.swaintech.com/
Sean Morris
tyndago@ix.netcom.com
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I did indeed shoot my manifolds, downpipe, crossover, and the hot side of my turbo with Swain "Black Satin". To see the results, check out the November 26th update at
http://www.techweasel.com/articles/syty/rebuild.htm.
I can't vouch for how it works yet, but it goes on easy enough with a touch-up gun,and it doesn't have to be baked before it can be handled.
I chose Swain because it was something I could apply myself, didn't cost an arm and a leg, and I heard good things about it from a T-Buick acquaintance.
- Paul
Sy #1853
http://www.TechWeasel.com
I finally got around to spraying all the sandblasted exhaust parts with Swain "Black Satin" coating. I chose this particular coating because it doesn't need to be cured in an oven, so I could do it myself and not worry about handling it as I reassemble the engine. The coating doesn't actually achieve its final cure until the first time it gets hot, but it's tough enough after air drying to stand being put back together. I'm told that once it's fully cured, it takes on a brownish-black matte patina.
A few notes about application - The parts MUST be sandblasted to open up the surface pores of the metal, and then cleaned with acetone or another non-petroleum based solvent. After they've been wiped down, you shouldn't handle them with bare hands either to prevent them from getting contaminated with skin oils. Once that's done, they can be sprayed using an airbrush or touch-up gun (like I used) at low pressure (35 psi or less). The instructions on the can say "shake well", and they mean it! I threw a couple of nuts in the can to help agitate it, and even then it took a lot of vigorous shaking to get everything in suspension.
They say that the ideal coating is no more than 0.015 inches thick, and not to apply a second coat over a previously sprayed piece, so a little bit goes a long way. A one pint can covered all you see here, and I would have had perhaps a quarter of it left over if I hadn't fiddled around quite so much
getting the spray right.
After letting it cure overnight, all the parts were safe to handle.
- Paul
Sy #1853
http://www.TechWeasel.com
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From: "Adams, Erik A (WLS)"
As a thermal barrier, I believe the Swain Tech TBC-EX coating would be the hands down winner. It is applied as solid ceramic layers, and is .015 to .020 thick. Jet-Hot would have the advantage in regards to rust through(with carbon steel components) as the Swain Tech product can only be applied externally.
>
>HTH,
>>-Erik.
