Head Studs

tyndago

tyndago

New member
I ordered ARP 12 point undercut headstuds from Summit . Got canceled by Summit . Then ordered 12 point regular and they are supposed to come in 1/1/02 . I want to get the motor together...Last time it was held up several times and then canceled...

Anyone have a good line on some in stock ARP head STUDS - for normal 4.3 heads ?
 
U

UNIsackV6

Member
On 2001-12-27 16:23, tyndago wrote:
I ordered ARP 12 point undercut headstuds from Summit . Got canceled by Summit . Then ordered 12 point regular and they are supposed to come in 1/1/02 . I want to get the motor together...Last time it was held up several times and then canceled...

Anyone have a good line on some in stock ARP head STUDS - for normal 4.3 heads ?
Click to expand...

Try this site: http://www.dieselmall.com/Default.asp
Go to Products, Choose Brand = ARP, then make your choice from the Category. Looks like they carry quite a bit of ARP stuffs. If you just want to call someone who knows his stuff and is reliable call Norm at Ultratech 219-256-9462 and tell him what you are building he has tons of experience with the V6. Good luck.
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
I ordered mine today 12 pt undercut from barnete perf...I hope they dont call me back and cancel
 
S

smeagol

Active member
I believe I just used a regular SBC kit, and had some extras, or I just left 'em in the motor somewhere :wink:
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
yeah could have ordered them but they were $25 more....will the heads come on and off with head studs..while in the truck...everybody knows how I like to R&R them all the time..I don't want to limit my fun to having to pull the motor every other week to redo my head gaskets...It's like changing plugs only better
 
myclone

myclone

Donating Member
jwaller,

I just dont forsee the head clearing the AC box on a studded eng. Prolly wont clear the master cyl either on the other side.

Just my .02 (thats bout all its worth).

Now I KNOW Im gonna get blasted for this but......

Studs are good in a situation where the heads are gonna be yanked a LOT (even more than you wallyworld) so I really dont see a need for em on 99% of our stuff. Bolts (good ones like ARP) will be fine and not near as much of a PIA as studs to work around. They do look "racey" though..

Even main studs are over kill most of the time. The only reason I use em is for mounting a windage tray/screen.

OK, flame away...
 
RAACCR

RAACCR

Member
You can get the heads on & off a studded motor in the truck, but you'll need to get a little creative...jacking up one side of the motor to pull that head, then the other side to pull the other head. The AC/heater box side is a bigger PITA than the brake side. Personally, I don't do any motor work in the truck..I got tired of fighting with that crap years ago, and I've pretty much got everything held togather with zippers, so I can R&R it pretty quick :wink:

If you have big valve springs, you'll need 12 point nuts to clear 'em. Also, load up the studs with teflon paste when you thread 'em into the block, and add a few GM cooling tablets to the radiator (or they may seep a little coolant).

My big question is "why are you popping head gaskets?". If the block and heads are straight, that shouldn't happen...even with NOS. Even when I've detonated the hell out of a built motor, I've always pounded the rod bearings before the head gaskets let loose. I'd only recommend original SyTy gaskets or Mr. Gasket #5724 Solicores, and torque 'em in the standard sequence to 70 ft. lbs.
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
well to be totally honest I ran it low on water for about 1/4 mile (testing on the road in GB) 20psi and shot it to it.....that was in GB and it got 1 of them..and now the other finally gave out.....so now u know.....the whole story..and of course if I had known it was low I never would have even cranked it up.

_________________
TE-60, ATR headers, Vortecs, TCS converter, 50# chip, NOS Profogger

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jwaller on 2001-12-27 21:01 ]</font>
 
tyndago

tyndago

New member
Studs are good in a situation where the heads are gonna be yanked a LOT (even more than you wallyworld) so I really dont see a need for em on 99% of our stuff.
Click to expand...

I'm a 1% er though... Most of the things I have read - real engine builder stuff - they dont mess with bolts - always studs. Studs avoid the twisting of bolts and leave everything aligned correctly. For the money difference - I am going to run them.

Plus I like boost...
 
tyndago

tyndago

New member
Not today either...today I am home sick... until the studs show up I will be playing with Skylines like this one. . . .

http://www.motorex.net/Bigbird.html

Actually I am driving Hiros Typhoon for now.. I like the 92's seats better than the 93. But the visors and having an overhead console is nice.
 
U

UNIsackV6

Member
On 2002-01-03 21:05, tyndago wrote:
Not today either...today I am home sick... until the studs show up I will be playing with Skylines like this one. . . .

http://www.motorex.net/Bigbird.html

Actually I am driving Hiros Typhoon for now.. I like the 92's seats better than the 93. But the visors and having an overhead console is nice.
Click to expand...

You suck!!! :cool: Question for you Mr.Skyline, is the Skyline transfer case a chain driven unit? Any info on their breaking point? Say Hi to Kak for me...
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
hey Ryan..what size valves did you stuuf in those heads of yours and what cam are you using (how much lift works on those Bowies)?....
 
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