Gilbert driveshaft
- Thread starter bigtime
- Start date
SY2932
Administrator
Rawpwr7 said:
The flange in the lower right hand corner MUST be removed before you can install the yoke for the Gilbert propshaft. That is the flange that requires the 32MM socket to be removed from the front differential.
If you ACTUALLY broke your old propshaft in two, you will need large pipe wrench or pair of LARGE channel locks (impact wrench would be the best option) to hold the old propshaft stub to keep it from spinning. Then, you will be able remove the bolts that hold the front of the old propshaft to the flange so that you can remove the flange itself.
Tydriver
TurboLS6 Powa'
I've had the Gilbert shaft on my truck for a looong time.. I was one of the first peeps to purchase it.. I havent had an issue with it leaking (even tho truck has been sitting for 2 years). Prior to the engine failure, I put about 3000 miles on it.. With that said I am quite happy with that purchase..
Dunno why everyone elses is leaking, but my front diff had 110k on it and the gilbert shaft and it never leaked.
Dunno why everyone elses is leaking, but my front diff had 110k on it and the gilbert shaft and it never leaked.
crashing_sux
Blow Me?
My name is Shane and I have a Gilbert shaft and leaky pinion seal.
Feel like I'm joining a 12 step program here, didn't realize it was such a common problem.
Feel like I'm joining a 12 step program here, didn't realize it was such a common problem.
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
I'm having a feeling its not due to the shaft, rather the act of removing and re-installing the flange there.
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
SyTyArchives said:
This I would believe. I'm sorry for starting something on such a nice piece of work.
So let's get an established install procedure down and write up a "How To".
I'll write it up and take photos with the Digi Reb...but I need to have all the parts handy first and all the steps ready for me to do the article.
Part Number for Pinion Seal?
TurboManiacal
Donating Member
Welp I have some gaskets on the way. I'll try and do a comprehensive write up with photos.
I have a question - something that has NEVER made sense to me...
If you have a drive shaft that is balanced (as they all are) - why would the orientation of the shaft make a difference? Being there are 4 bolts on it - you can spin it 90* at a time. With the rear - you have whatever the number of splines in the driveshaft divided by 360*.
Being we are AWD - and the shafts turn in opposite directions (one goes clockwise and the other goes counter-clockwise) they are always going to cross paths at the same time. Or if you have some slip between the front and rear - this is going to get thrown off.
I don't know - for some reason in my head it never makes sense when this is said.
If you have a drive shaft that is balanced (as they all are) - why would the orientation of the shaft make a difference? Being there are 4 bolts on it - you can spin it 90* at a time. With the rear - you have whatever the number of splines in the driveshaft divided by 360*.
Being we are AWD - and the shafts turn in opposite directions (one goes clockwise and the other goes counter-clockwise) they are always going to cross paths at the same time. Or if you have some slip between the front and rear - this is going to get thrown off.
I don't know - for some reason in my head it never makes sense when this is said.
mduffy
the"other"Morgan
On the stock propshaft, isn't that a viscous coupling? Since SyTys are all wheel drive so there has to be some mechanism accounting for slippage so that the T-case gears don't bind on dry pavement. This leads me to 2 questions:
1. If that is a viscous coupling on the stock shaft won't the Gilbert shaft bind up the t-case?
2. If that isn't a viscous (I have not idea if I spelled that correctly) coupling in the propshaft where and how do they slip?
1. If that is a viscous coupling on the stock shaft won't the Gilbert shaft bind up the t-case?
2. If that isn't a viscous (I have not idea if I spelled that correctly) coupling in the propshaft where and how do they slip?
THEMADTYPH00N
Active member
mduffy said:
The viscous coupling your talking about is inside the transfer case.
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
people mark them just for good measure, in all logic rotating either of the shafts on their mounting points shouldnt make any difference. Its just following the idea of "re-install it the way it came off".
the slipping between the front and rear wheels happens in the transfer case, the only nifty things in the propshaft are joints that allow it to rotate and telescope a little.
And the flange it replaces on the stock front differential is simply a difference in the mechanical mounting of the frontend of the shaft.
the slipping between the front and rear wheels happens in the transfer case, the only nifty things in the propshaft are joints that allow it to rotate and telescope a little.
And the flange it replaces on the stock front differential is simply a difference in the mechanical mounting of the frontend of the shaft.
NOJIMMY
New member
....There is a high-level tutorial at the following site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/driveline/