Front differential
- Thread starter TxSy1430
- Start date
TxSy1430
New member
Re: Front differential
your gonna need a tube of KY, some ball bearings, gauze pads and 30 weight oil. Oh and dont forget the xanax. Good luck getting the steering joints apart, the one that connects to the pitman arm on mine would not come off at all. I broke a pickle fork trying, so I had to persuade the diff out... :rant: I will post some pics tonight.
Scott
1430
your gonna need a tube of KY, some ball bearings, gauze pads and 30 weight oil. Oh and dont forget the xanax. Good luck getting the steering joints apart, the one that connects to the pitman arm on mine would not come off at all. I broke a pickle fork trying, so I had to persuade the diff out... :rant: I will post some pics tonight.
Scott
1430
turbodog
Donating Member
Re: Front differential
Just to compare notes, this is how I took mine out:
1. unbolt CV axles and front propshaft
2. Remove upper and lower mounting bolts on diff housing and 2 bolts on pass side axle extension (duh! so far)
3. pop the centerlink off the pittman arm and push forward so top diff mount can clear it as the diff rotates down at the front (sorry yours would not come off. I cannot imagine how you got past that hurdle).
4. Unload pre-load on driver side front spring (coilover in my case), remove 2 lower a-arm bolts.
5. pull a-arm out just far enough for diff top mount to clear front tube on lower a-arm as it rotates down in front.
6. Diff is now sitting on garage floor (hopefully no fingers underneath).
One trick I learned: I had a 3 foot long piece of 1/2 inch iron pipe. I found I could wedge it under the diff then forward on top of the crossmember. It would wedge in there and hold the diff up in position as I got all the bolts and stuff out, then helped to control the diff as I lowered it. I expect it will come in handy holding the diff up as I get all the bolts started during re-assembly.
Just to compare notes, this is how I took mine out:
1. unbolt CV axles and front propshaft
2. Remove upper and lower mounting bolts on diff housing and 2 bolts on pass side axle extension (duh! so far)
3. pop the centerlink off the pittman arm and push forward so top diff mount can clear it as the diff rotates down at the front (sorry yours would not come off. I cannot imagine how you got past that hurdle).
4. Unload pre-load on driver side front spring (coilover in my case), remove 2 lower a-arm bolts.
5. pull a-arm out just far enough for diff top mount to clear front tube on lower a-arm as it rotates down in front.
6. Diff is now sitting on garage floor (hopefully no fingers underneath).
One trick I learned: I had a 3 foot long piece of 1/2 inch iron pipe. I found I could wedge it under the diff then forward on top of the crossmember. It would wedge in there and hold the diff up in position as I got all the bolts and stuff out, then helped to control the diff as I lowered it. I expect it will come in handy holding the diff up as I get all the bolts started during re-assembly.
cameronsclone
New member
Re: Front differential
Where are you getting your new diff? Are you rebuilding? I helped another austin guy take out his a few nights ago, seems like everyone is taking it out. Mine just blew up on me a few weeks ago, So I'm in the middle of pulling it out too.
Where are you getting your new diff? Are you rebuilding? I helped another austin guy take out his a few nights ago, seems like everyone is taking it out. Mine just blew up on me a few weeks ago, So I'm in the middle of pulling it out too.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Front differential
One thing I couldn't figure out was how to get the drive shaft flange up and over that darn support. If your dif is leaking anyway I'd just remove the flange. I didn't want to do that (would have been easier in the end) so ground off the welds removing the "inner" portion of the support, made a huge difference in getting that thing out and back in. It must be that some trucks are different. I absolutely could not get the dif out or back in without loosening the motor mounts and raising the motor a bit. However I did not have to remove any a-arm pieces, just the tie rod to clear the front support on the dif. Also there are a couple of little brackets on the front cross-member that are in the way and seem to serve no purpose. I cut them off. Every little bit helps.
One thing I couldn't figure out was how to get the drive shaft flange up and over that darn support. If your dif is leaking anyway I'd just remove the flange. I didn't want to do that (would have been easier in the end) so ground off the welds removing the "inner" portion of the support, made a huge difference in getting that thing out and back in. It must be that some trucks are different. I absolutely could not get the dif out or back in without loosening the motor mounts and raising the motor a bit. However I did not have to remove any a-arm pieces, just the tie rod to clear the front support on the dif. Also there are a couple of little brackets on the front cross-member that are in the way and seem to serve no purpose. I cut them off. Every little bit helps.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Front differential
I heard this before but no torch here. Little die grinder did the trick in few minutes. Free welder, with operator, at work.:tup: So when all was said and done just drove truck to work with bracket bolted in place and had it re-welded there. Like motor mounts, lots of ways to do this job...
jwaller said:
I heard this before but no torch here. Little die grinder did the trick in few minutes. Free welder, with operator, at work.:tup: So when all was said and done just drove truck to work with bracket bolted in place and had it re-welded there. Like motor mounts, lots of ways to do this job...
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Front differential
I wnet through this a little over a month ago and it sucked. Plain and simple. I had to bend the bracket out of the way as well. I cant believe there sint a better way to do this. Ideally taking the control arms off would be smart but I didnt know enough about the torsion bars to do so so I did it the hard way I guess. What kills me is all the people who say theres just came out. :dunno:
I wnet through this a little over a month ago and it sucked. Plain and simple. I had to bend the bracket out of the way as well. I cant believe there sint a better way to do this. Ideally taking the control arms off would be smart but I didnt know enough about the torsion bars to do so so I did it the hard way I guess. What kills me is all the people who say theres just came out. :dunno:
SloGN
9Sec Alky V6
Re: Front differential
OK guys and gals
I'm in serious need of help. I currently working on NCTyphoon's 93 ty. The motor has started making some noises in the bottom end after having the oil filter adapter gasket and o ring blow out.
Well fast forward i'm tring to take the front diff out so i can pull the oil pan and see if the bearings and crank is bad.
I have took the center link out.i have gotten all four bolts on the diff case out.i have got both axles unbolted. I thought that it would possiably rotate and come out but no dice. what am i missing here?
Also those two little tangs on the cross member on the driver side those look to be like where a steering stabilizer would bolts on a four wheel drive model. Is the ty's suppse to have a stabilizer on them.
Also how is the turbo drain in the oil pan bolted on? do i just unscrew it @ the oil pan or do i have to seprate the rubber part and leave the fitting on the pan?
thanks for the help.
OK guys and gals
I'm in serious need of help. I currently working on NCTyphoon's 93 ty. The motor has started making some noises in the bottom end after having the oil filter adapter gasket and o ring blow out.
Well fast forward i'm tring to take the front diff out so i can pull the oil pan and see if the bearings and crank is bad.
I have took the center link out.i have gotten all four bolts on the diff case out.i have got both axles unbolted. I thought that it would possiably rotate and come out but no dice. what am i missing here?
Also those two little tangs on the cross member on the driver side those look to be like where a steering stabilizer would bolts on a four wheel drive model. Is the ty's suppse to have a stabilizer on them.
Also how is the turbo drain in the oil pan bolted on? do i just unscrew it @ the oil pan or do i have to seprate the rubber part and leave the fitting on the pan?
thanks for the help.
Mtn Z
Donating Member
Re: Front differential
You have to yank and pry on the diff a little bit to break it loose out of where it mounts. Use a screwdriver or something to wedge inside where the diff bolts up. Then it will start moving around. The center link is removed so it shouldn't be a huge problem. As long as you can get it around the control arms, you should be fine. The little bracket piece on the frame is for a stabilizer, but our trucks didn't use it. You can bang it flat or grind it off if you want. I haven't done the oil feed line though so unfortunately, I can't help you there.
You have to yank and pry on the diff a little bit to break it loose out of where it mounts. Use a screwdriver or something to wedge inside where the diff bolts up. Then it will start moving around. The center link is removed so it shouldn't be a huge problem. As long as you can get it around the control arms, you should be fine. The little bracket piece on the frame is for a stabilizer, but our trucks didn't use it. You can bang it flat or grind it off if you want. I haven't done the oil feed line though so unfortunately, I can't help you there.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Front differential
The oil feed line will disconnect just fine without dropping anything in the pan. Not necessary for the front dif removal but pan removal, yes of course. I'd just cut the hose, if original, cuz yur gonna replace it anyway. Get rid of those "tangs." Remove the pinion flange. (Or do like I did and grind the welds on the outer portion of that support and re-weld it later.) I also had to loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor just a bit.
Think removal is difficult wait for the reinstall.:squint:
The oil feed line will disconnect just fine without dropping anything in the pan. Not necessary for the front dif removal but pan removal, yes of course. I'd just cut the hose, if original, cuz yur gonna replace it anyway. Get rid of those "tangs." Remove the pinion flange. (Or do like I did and grind the welds on the outer portion of that support and re-weld it later.) I also had to loosen the motor mounts and jack the motor just a bit.
Think removal is difficult wait for the reinstall.:squint: