B
Blake
Guest
#1 Is exactly what I have. Wonder if it is worth it to just do a timing chain?
I could do lots of other "fun stuff" while I'm in there. Engine has 130Kmiles on it. My compression is really good. 165psi on 5 cyls and 175 on #1 cylinder. Have a set of rebuilt L-35s in the garage. Maybe a cam and lifter update. What do you guys think? Can't really afford to rebuild the whole engine right now. Let me know, trying to figure out how to tackle this.
1. On engines without chain tensioners that have distributors driven by the camshaft, watch the timing mark while checking ignition timing at idle. If the mark moves back and forth, the chain is loose.
2. To check a pushrod engine for chain slack while the engine is in the car:
Remove the distributor cap and turn the vibration damper in one direction until the distributor rotor begins to turn.
Then, turn the crank in the opposite direction until the rotor moves again.
Observe how far the damper moves before the rotor turns.
Because most distributors are driven by the cam, this is a good way to check for chain slack on these engines.
The engine may still run acceptably with 10° to 15° of chain slack. But ideally, movement should be less than 5° at the crank
Blake
I could do lots of other "fun stuff" while I'm in there. Engine has 130Kmiles on it. My compression is really good. 165psi on 5 cyls and 175 on #1 cylinder. Have a set of rebuilt L-35s in the garage. Maybe a cam and lifter update. What do you guys think? Can't really afford to rebuild the whole engine right now. Let me know, trying to figure out how to tackle this.
1. On engines without chain tensioners that have distributors driven by the camshaft, watch the timing mark while checking ignition timing at idle. If the mark moves back and forth, the chain is loose.
2. To check a pushrod engine for chain slack while the engine is in the car:
Remove the distributor cap and turn the vibration damper in one direction until the distributor rotor begins to turn.
Then, turn the crank in the opposite direction until the rotor moves again.
Observe how far the damper moves before the rotor turns.
Because most distributors are driven by the cam, this is a good way to check for chain slack on these engines.
The engine may still run acceptably with 10° to 15° of chain slack. But ideally, movement should be less than 5° at the crank
Blake