Diff. oil

SyTyAddict

Member
Re: Diff. oil

Use 80w-90 gear oil, I can't remember the exact amount it takes, I think it is around 1.5 quarts. There is a fill plug on the front of the diff housing, it really helps to have a pump to put the fluid in with. With it parked on level ground, fill it until the fluid starts to run out of the hole, then reinstall the fill plug. To remove the old fluid, you have to pump it out or drill and tap the bottom of the case for a drain plug.
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Diff. oil

. To remove the old fluid, you have to pump it out or drill and tap the bottom of the case for a drain plug.

WTF is up with that? with a vacuum pump you can get it out too, just wonder why they didn't put a drain plug in.
 

Black Knight

I Glow Therefore I am
Re: Diff. oil

Not sure if it makes a whole hell of a lot of difference, but I always use full synthetic as well.
 

ranger

Member
Re: Diff. oil

Hi folks,

Yes, use synthetic gear oil.

There was no excuse for the factory not to put in a drain plug.

You should replace the fill plug with one that has a magnet on it; do it for both front and rear differentials and remove and clean the metal filings off the plug at every (engine) oil change.

You are referring to the front differential in your post, as the correct way to service the rear diff is to remove the 10-bolt cover and clean everything out with about 2 cans of carb clean and some clean rags and compressed oil.

If you decide to install a drain plug in the front differential, be careful. You cannot just use a standard drill bit. If you do the drain plug will never tighten. The pipe thread is tapered and thus you must use a tapered drill bit.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Ranger
Aiken, SC
 

GM TURBO

Sell Out
Re: Diff. oil

You are referring to the front differential in your post, as the correct way to service the rear diff is to remove the 10-bolt cover and clean everything out with about 2 cans of carb clean and some clean rags and compressed oil.

Doesn't work that way. There isn't a diff cover on the front. It must be pumped out.
 

Osmosis

New member
Re: Diff. oil

Go royal purple, amsoil or some other high quality full synthetic. Go to harbor freight for a cheap effective pump, you'll pay about 10 bucks and they work great!
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: Diff. oil

If you decide to install a drain plug in the front differential, be careful. You cannot just use a standard drill bit. If you do the drain plug will never tighten. The pipe thread is tapered and thus you must use a tapered drill bit.

Standard pipe tap is drilled with a regular DRILL BIT!!!

But if i were doing a drain plug i would never use a PIPE PLUG FOR IT !!!!!!!! And every blazer front diff i do i include a drain .

Are you using a drain plug kit or just adding a hole for another drain plug that you have on hand ?
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: Diff. oil

The OP's thread is getting a bit off-topic. Not unusual for here. So I'll add to it. Why all the fuss about front diff drain plugs? Why is it necessary? How frequently does the front lube need to be changed??? On a garage-car like most SyTy's, I would think once every 5 years or so would be MORE than adequate. Even on a street truck that's driven a lot, the normal GM recommended change interval for a rear is 30,000 miles. Adjust that for the front power level (35%) and the equivalent mileage is >75,000 for reasonable lubricant life. Most SyTy owners don't keep their truck that long. Change the front lube when you 'baseline' it after purchase, and most likely that owner will never touch the front lube ever again. So use a pump.

To me, a drain plug is just a potential source for a leak. I hate leaks. The only sure-fire way to prevent a leak at the front diff drain plug is don't put one in! For a once every 5 years or so maintenance item, I can use a pump to extract the old lube. And more than likely you're going to change the lube as part of other maintenance during that interval such as pinion or axle seal replacement anyway.

Think about it. Don't create problems. "Parts left out cost nothing, don't require installation, and cause no service problems later on". Boss Kettering.
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: Diff. oil

I agree Dave , off topic it had become .

The op's question had been answered and I wanted to see what tom was recommending as an alternative to what was being mentioned . Even though its not setup like that on a Syty , I knew someone years from now will see this thread because of the search words used . My curiosity got the best of me so I posted on it . For someone to say I do this all the time and not to do this or that in a particular way , the missing info on whats the better method was puzzling me . Sorry for the ramble , I'm just a weird fellow like that :)
 

ranger

Member
Re: Diff. oil

Hi folks,

thanks for clarifying that I was referring to the REAR differential.

Still, I had a "typo." I meant to say to clean the rear diff out with rags, a coupla cans of carb clean, and compressed 'AIR,' not "oil," as I wrote in the post.

Yes, you can get by without using a tapered drill, but you will have to drill the hole a bit smaller--thus, the tapered tap will accomodate the taper--you CANNOT use the drill size that is recommended on the tap, as it will not tighten, as was pointed out.

The front diff does indeed have a cover that can be removed, as well--if you have about 5 hours to spend. A previous post seemed to suggest that it was a sealed unit, as some cars/trucks have.

Best,

Ranger
Aiken, SC.
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: Diff. oil

Just wondering why the 35% was mentioned? The front diff rolls on the road 100% as much as the rear.[punctuation and syntax corrected]

In our AWD system the front only receives 35% of the torque the engine produces. The rear diff 65%. The lube is deteriorated by shear, heat, and compressive forces. These forces are only 35% of what the same power would do to the lube in a rear diff in a 2WD at the same power levels, and vehicle weights. In my 4X4 S-series that just turned 300K, I changed the front lube once about 150K ago. But I seldom use 4X4 as I live in SoCal. The lube doesn't wear at all, other than the spider gears that have no load, they're just turning. So why change it?

I know, I'm thinking a little over your head, Tom.

EDIT: I just went through 3 different S-series Helms manuals. In the maintenance sections, I couldn't find any lube change recommendation or change interval for the front differential. The only reference was "check level at each oil change". For the rear, they recommend changing "each 15,000 miles under dusty conditions, or trailer towing". They also stipulate for a Positraction rear: "Change the lube at the first engine oil change. Then check level at each subsequent engine oil change". They don't suggest or imply that the posi lube needs changing again. Unless "dusty conditions or trailer towing" applies as for the standard axle. Other than dusty or trailer towing, and the initial change for positraction units, there is no change interval suggested for any differential. Only level-checking.

Here's the deal. You may have overlooked it, but I did mention it. Axle lube lasts a long time. As long as it doesn't become contaminated with water. Seals have a finite life. Roughly 5-10 years. When axle seals are renewed, the lube get replaced. GM knows this, and I'm smart enough to figure it out by myself. The service-life of axle lube is at least the length of intervals between seal changes.

Once again, I feel that installing front diff drain plugs is an extemporaneous activity. It's not necessary to change the lube between routine seal changes, so why have the drain plug?
 
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MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: Diff. oil

What were you interested in in my answer???

Actually changing the DIFF oil is important. I always install a drain and it in fact does not leak. And if you feel you dont have to change the oil then dont. That glob of sludge was taken out of a diff with moderate mileage. I find it interesting that posting about modifications dont interest you marking. What would you like me to say? That i dont add a drain plug to the DIFF. Well i do and do it all the time. People like to drain fluids. I am a Detroit diesel certified shop and every big truck has drains on everything. If you feel you dont have to change the oil go for it. By the way drain plugs dont leak if installed correctly. Saying it is a leak point is WELL!!!!

MARKING their are a couple of ways to install a drain.

I wasn't even going to respond but I noticed you garbled up my name intentionally , and twice at that . The "A" isn't anywhere near the M+R keys , so its safe to say you were attempting to be clever .

What i can't understand is why would you say I am uninterested in something that I specifically asked you about ? Calling me out on a simple question that was clear and respectful must make you feel real good . You explained how you put drain plugs on everything and even how the tapered pipe thread drill bit varies from the standard pipe tap . You then said you don't use a pipe plug for the drain . That brought about my question of what do you use when you perform these conversions ? Is it a kit you buy , or is it something from another vehicle that you make work on this new install ?

The next time you rush in here to tout your brobdingnagian level of auto mastery , be certain you've read the thread entirely .I can now see why you were ran off of Facebook and those other forums . Have a great Memorial Day . :tup:
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: Diff. oil

By the Way i make the drain PLUG. When rebuilding a diff it takes 30 SECONDS TO INSTALL It takes me app 1hour to install on customers trucks with the diff in place if they want one.

I thought you may have meant you weld in a bung and then used a -AN plug fitting . Now I see you just make them entirely . :roll:

An apology from you for jumping to conclusions like you did wouldn't have been beneath you . It doesn't shock me you felt it was though . :tup:
 

MRKING

New Parts for Old Trucks
Re: Diff. oil

DaveP, we dont tell people where our shop is because with all of the highend cars we have in it (porsche,ferrari, bentley, Restomods) we wouldnt want a trashy bum like you to come peering through our windows. We dont need losers like you or other internet forum tough guys to tell us we do good work, the timeslips and trophies from many many many years of repeat customers are more then enough to keep us happy. id LOVE to see what you build

You have alot of spare time on your hands to stalk pictures out of me and my dad, im flattered , I guess all our LSX powered Gm cars must have slipped past your google search. Go work on your Delorean you cracked out Christopher lloyd look a like

Saying the front diff only takes 35% of power has absolutely nothing to do with sludge deposits and how frequently it needs to be serviced, i dont care what a service manual says, How many people on here are still running stock setups, adding 75+ more horsepower takes it toll on everything the service manual means nothing at that point. We have had 7 s10s in our family alone over the years including 2 typhoons, one which had 19,000 original miles and was garage kept, all stock, guess what even that fluid looked like trash when we serviced it then. The proof is in the pudding and thats what the front diff fluid looks like if you dont change it

Which 2 numbered Typhoons have you guys owned ? Color combo ? When trying to keep great track of them all in the Syty registry , we try to make sure all of them eventually get accounted for .Thanks for sharing .
 
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