afpr question
- Thread starter Mephisto
- Start date
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
ok i have the afpr in, and the electric fuel pressure gauge. i started the engine and cranked up the fpr till the gauge said 50psi. then went for a test drive, which didnt last long, because the check engine light came on before i even got down the street. i came back and hooked up the datamaster, and it says im throwing the "O2 rich" code. i thought the base fuel pressure for the ultimate chip was 50lbs? should i say eff that, and just get my fuel pressure to where im not throwing a code?
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
ok... i went out and pulled the vacuum line off the fpr. im still getting the "O2 rich" code. ive loosend the bolt on the fpr almost completely and datamaster still says im running rich. so now WTF?
the moral of this story...
dont start projects on your sy/ty, when your daily driver, is broken. now i have no car :sad:
the moral of this story...
dont start projects on your sy/ty, when your daily driver, is broken. now i have no car :sad:
B
Blake
Guest
I think what he means is:
while you are adjusting your fuel pressure you need to have the vacuum line off of the top of the fpr and plugged(a golf tee or old bolt will do). After you get it adjusted where you want it, take out the golf tee and put the line back on. It should drop a little when the engine vacuum starts pulling up on the diaphragm inside the regulator. When you get into boost, it should push down on the diaphragm inside the regulator to increase boost pressure(kinda like temporarily cranking down on the bolt while driving down the road).
Blake
while you are adjusting your fuel pressure you need to have the vacuum line off of the top of the fpr and plugged(a golf tee or old bolt will do). After you get it adjusted where you want it, take out the golf tee and put the line back on. It should drop a little when the engine vacuum starts pulling up on the diaphragm inside the regulator. When you get into boost, it should push down on the diaphragm inside the regulator to increase boost pressure(kinda like temporarily cranking down on the bolt while driving down the road).
Blake
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
well ive been outside messing with this thing for the past hour...
i keep readjusting the fpr, and the check engine light is still coming on. the datamaster still says its running rich.. but the DTC light is on all the time! even when the engine isnt running... do i need to have something reset or what?
i keep readjusting the fpr, and the check engine light is still coming on. the datamaster still says its running rich.. but the DTC light is on all the time! even when the engine isnt running... do i need to have something reset or what?
SY2932
Administrator
You can clear the stored trouble codes by removing the negative battery cable for 30 seconds (PITA if you have the ATR battery relocation like me) or you can remove the ECMB fuse. If you elect to do the latter, make sure that you have your ignition in the "OFF" position so as not to damage your ECM. HTH
Mike
Mike
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
thanks everyone for the help!!!
hopefully tomorrow i can get this thing dialed in! its kinda late tonight to mess with it. im sure the neighbors really wanna hear me screaming obscenities at the truck in the middle of the night hahaha
ill post results tomorrow, or ill be back asking more questions if i still cant get it to work.
hopefully tomorrow i can get this thing dialed in! its kinda late tonight to mess with it. im sure the neighbors really wanna hear me screaming obscenities at the truck in the middle of the night hahaha
ill post results tomorrow, or ill be back asking more questions if i still cant get it to work.
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
ok well its good i didnt go out and try to fix this fucker last night... i woulda woke everyone up in the neighborhood from my screaming!
ok, ive gone out and pulled the vacuum line off the regulator, plugged it, and started messing with the fuel pressure. my gauge says50psi, so i put the vacuum hose back on... but the datamaster keeps throwing the O2 rich code. the short term counts start out at 128. then plummet to 80 and stay there. ive messed with the AFPR every way... raising the pressure... lowering the pressure.. hell the screw practically came out! and it still throws the O2 rich code.
the only thing im thinking is maybe i have a bad O2 sensor, but it worked fine before i put the fpr in, besides my tail pipe is spittin out gas. so whats the deal here? the afpr is bad??? im gonna go eat some ice cream and calm down before i get the sledge hammer out and start breaking shit.
ok, ive gone out and pulled the vacuum line off the regulator, plugged it, and started messing with the fuel pressure. my gauge says50psi, so i put the vacuum hose back on... but the datamaster keeps throwing the O2 rich code. the short term counts start out at 128. then plummet to 80 and stay there. ive messed with the AFPR every way... raising the pressure... lowering the pressure.. hell the screw practically came out! and it still throws the O2 rich code.
the only thing im thinking is maybe i have a bad O2 sensor, but it worked fine before i put the fpr in, besides my tail pipe is spittin out gas. so whats the deal here? the afpr is bad??? im gonna go eat some ice cream and calm down before i get the sledge hammer out and start breaking shit.
Mephisto
These trucks are cursed
after messing with this all day, i just decided to take out the ultimate and the 3bar, and go back to the stock chip and 2bar.
i have my fuel pressure set at around 43psi, and everything is good... no codes, long term fuel count is solid at 128, and short term waivers from lean to rich, but still right around 128. but!... my idle is at 900!
so with the stock set up at 43psi, everything is good, but idles at 900. and with the 3bar and ultimate, set at 50psi, it throws the "02 rich" code, and drives like shit.
ive just about had it with this eff'n thing, i dont even want to mess with this anymore.
haha i dunno what i was thinking!! i thought this was gonna be a simple install hahaha yeah, just like the time it took me 2 days to do a friggin tune up!
well if anyone has any interesting theorys im all ears, i am fresh outta ideas!
_________________
Neal McCool
Syclone #1931
So Cali
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Cold Wind Of Death on 2002-02-09 21:11 ]</font>
i have my fuel pressure set at around 43psi, and everything is good... no codes, long term fuel count is solid at 128, and short term waivers from lean to rich, but still right around 128. but!... my idle is at 900!
so with the stock set up at 43psi, everything is good, but idles at 900. and with the 3bar and ultimate, set at 50psi, it throws the "02 rich" code, and drives like shit.
ive just about had it with this eff'n thing, i dont even want to mess with this anymore.
haha i dunno what i was thinking!! i thought this was gonna be a simple install hahaha yeah, just like the time it took me 2 days to do a friggin tune up!
well if anyone has any interesting theorys im all ears, i am fresh outta ideas!
_________________
Neal McCool
Syclone #1931
So Cali
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Cold Wind Of Death on 2002-02-09 21:11 ]</font>
TurboTony
Active member
Hmmm, to set a rich o2 code, its gotta be really rich.
Here's a thought, did you happen to notice if there was any fuel coming out of the vacum port on the regulator?
What type of regulator is it?
Betcha that the diaphram is ripped/torn, or other wise leaking and fuel is getting into the vacum side.
If you have access to a vacuum pump try it on the regulator and see if it holds, shouldn't leak at all.
Look at the bright side, at least your getting good at changing the regulator :grin:
TurboTony
Here's a thought, did you happen to notice if there was any fuel coming out of the vacum port on the regulator?
What type of regulator is it?
Betcha that the diaphram is ripped/torn, or other wise leaking and fuel is getting into the vacum side.
If you have access to a vacuum pump try it on the regulator and see if it holds, shouldn't leak at all.
Look at the bright side, at least your getting good at changing the regulator :grin:
TurboTony
Tooky
Serious about performance
Here's a thought, a vacuum leak can cause the truck to idle higher, and there is a vacuum line connected to your AFPR that you have been disconnecting and reconnecting a lot. Maybe it got cracked or something? Just a thought, although TurboTony's explanation makes more sense.
Have you ever installed a new 02 sensor?
Someone correct me here, but why would the short/long term be around 128 when the 02 is reading 900's at idle.
I would suspect the 02 isn't operating correctly.
Scott
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: kwick6 on 2002-02-10 15:55 ]</font>
Someone correct me here, but why would the short/long term be around 128 when the 02 is reading 900's at idle.
I would suspect the 02 isn't operating correctly.
Scott
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: kwick6 on 2002-02-10 15:55 ]</font>
check the vaccum lines. then check the vaccum lines. Then run around the house twice and check the vaccum lines again. It sounds like your not getting a good vaccum signal to the map sensor making it run real rich at idle. See what your vaccum signal is at idle on the datamaster files.
When he changed back, he changed the map sensor back to the 2bar. When he had the three bar hooked up, there may have been a vaccum line not on good.
However, that made me think of something. When I went to buy my 3bar map, the first time they sold me a baro sensor instead of the map sensor. It looks just like a map sensor, but its not. A way to check if you go the right sensor is to hook up the 3bar sensor you got and turn the switch to on, but don't crank the engine. Your stock bost gauge should be setting a little below middle ways in the green area. If its right in the middle, then you got a 2bar map. If its a baro sensor I think it will show in the yellow boost area.
However, that made me think of something. When I went to buy my 3bar map, the first time they sold me a baro sensor instead of the map sensor. It looks just like a map sensor, but its not. A way to check if you go the right sensor is to hook up the 3bar sensor you got and turn the switch to on, but don't crank the engine. Your stock bost gauge should be setting a little below middle ways in the green area. If its right in the middle, then you got a 2bar map. If its a baro sensor I think it will show in the yellow boost area.