10 vane pump 700r4 question
- Thread starter Sean Donn
- Start date
Sean Donn
New member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
links:
http://www.transdepot.net/700R4-High-RPM-10-Vane-Pump_p_142.html
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=7004
links:
http://www.transdepot.net/700R4-High-RPM-10-Vane-Pump_p_142.html
http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=7004
Flyin Ryan
hated cuz he drives fords
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
wow
wow
DaveP
Active member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
You're right. It won't leak, but the more important consideration is that that bushing stay in place and not walk forward. I don't have any experience. But I'll offer an opinion.
Those notches aren't there on an OEM pump. The front bushing can dislodge, move forward, and terar out the front seal, causing a massive leak. This usually happens fairly soon after an overhaul. So the builder eats the additional R&R, and if it got driven to no-fluid, has to re-do the frictions as well, as they are usually burned up too.
On rebuilds, most builders cut two notches on the other side and stake the bushing into the notches as an accepted, and common cure for this problem. It looks like someone got confused, or wasn't paying attention, and ground the notches in the wrong side of the bore. The notches are supposed to be on the back side so they hold the bushing from walking forward..
Look down in there. Can you see "stakes" in the bushing? If so great. If not, whoever built the pump didn't perform a widely accepted "this must be done" task on your new pump.
In this pic, the notch at 12:00 appears to line up with the oil drain-back hole. This is another part of the "seal blow-out" fix is to enlarge the passage. It looks like this notch lines up with the hole itself in the body indicating the hole was drilled from the other direction, and the drill bitt was allowed to hit the inner lip and notch it too. Plain ole' butchery. Doesn't happen unless the builder is careless.
Why didn't you just purchase the 10-vane kit and a couple of misc parts and rebuild your existing pump? They're not hard to do. And the parts cost about $15.00 jobber price. Seems like a lot of money for a spray-paint job.
You're right. It won't leak, but the more important consideration is that that bushing stay in place and not walk forward. I don't have any experience. But I'll offer an opinion.
Those notches aren't there on an OEM pump. The front bushing can dislodge, move forward, and terar out the front seal, causing a massive leak. This usually happens fairly soon after an overhaul. So the builder eats the additional R&R, and if it got driven to no-fluid, has to re-do the frictions as well, as they are usually burned up too.
On rebuilds, most builders cut two notches on the other side and stake the bushing into the notches as an accepted, and common cure for this problem. It looks like someone got confused, or wasn't paying attention, and ground the notches in the wrong side of the bore. The notches are supposed to be on the back side so they hold the bushing from walking forward..
Look down in there. Can you see "stakes" in the bushing? If so great. If not, whoever built the pump didn't perform a widely accepted "this must be done" task on your new pump.
In this pic, the notch at 12:00 appears to line up with the oil drain-back hole. This is another part of the "seal blow-out" fix is to enlarge the passage. It looks like this notch lines up with the hole itself in the body indicating the hole was drilled from the other direction, and the drill bitt was allowed to hit the inner lip and notch it too. Plain ole' butchery. Doesn't happen unless the builder is careless.
Why didn't you just purchase the 10-vane kit and a couple of misc parts and rebuild your existing pump? They're not hard to do. And the parts cost about $15.00 jobber price. Seems like a lot of money for a spray-paint job.
Last edited:
DaveP
Active member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
You're right. It won't leak, but the more important consideration is that that bushing stay in place and not walk forward. I don't have any experience. But I'll offer an opinion.
Those notches aren't there on an OEM pump. The front bushing can dislodge, move forward, and terar out the front seal, causing a massive leak. This usually happens fairly soon after an overhaul. So the builder eats the additional R&R, and if it got driven to no-fluid, has to re-do the frictions as well, as they are usually burned up too.
On rebuilds, most builders cut two notches on the other side and stake the bushing into the notches as an accepted, and common cure for this problem. It looks like someone got confused, or wasn't paying attention, and ground the notches in the wrong side of the bore. The notches are supposed to be on the back side so they hold the bushing from walking forward..
Look down in there. Can you see "stakes" in the bushing? If so great. If not, whoever built the pump didn't perform a widely accepted "this must be done" task on your new pump.
In this pic, the notch at 12:00 appears to line up with the oil drain-back hole. Part of the "seal blow-out" fix is to enlarge this passage. EDIT: I just went out in the shop and popped the seal out of a pump. this notch is there, but the others in the OP's pump aren't. Just double-check that the drainback passage has been enlarged.
Why didn't you just purchase the 10-vane kit and a couple of misc parts and rebuild your existing pump? They're not hard to do. And the parts cost about $15.00 jobber price. Seems like a lot of money for a spray-paint job.
You're right. It won't leak, but the more important consideration is that that bushing stay in place and not walk forward. I don't have any experience. But I'll offer an opinion.
Those notches aren't there on an OEM pump. The front bushing can dislodge, move forward, and terar out the front seal, causing a massive leak. This usually happens fairly soon after an overhaul. So the builder eats the additional R&R, and if it got driven to no-fluid, has to re-do the frictions as well, as they are usually burned up too.
On rebuilds, most builders cut two notches on the other side and stake the bushing into the notches as an accepted, and common cure for this problem. It looks like someone got confused, or wasn't paying attention, and ground the notches in the wrong side of the bore. The notches are supposed to be on the back side so they hold the bushing from walking forward..
Look down in there. Can you see "stakes" in the bushing? If so great. If not, whoever built the pump didn't perform a widely accepted "this must be done" task on your new pump.
In this pic, the notch at 12:00 appears to line up with the oil drain-back hole. Part of the "seal blow-out" fix is to enlarge this passage. EDIT: I just went out in the shop and popped the seal out of a pump. this notch is there, but the others in the OP's pump aren't. Just double-check that the drainback passage has been enlarged.
Why didn't you just purchase the 10-vane kit and a couple of misc parts and rebuild your existing pump? They're not hard to do. And the parts cost about $15.00 jobber price. Seems like a lot of money for a spray-paint job.
Last edited:
Sean Donn
New member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
dang that was some good detective work dave. the notch lines up perfectly with the drain hole.
There are no stakes in there to keep the bushing in place.
Had I known what I know now I would have rebuilt it myself. My old pump is still in the transmission which is installed at the moment. I plan to pull it this weekend and swap it with this piece of junk just so I can start my truck up finally. I'll rebuild the old one, pick up some new experience, and change it out eventually if it's not already time to go to a 4l80e by then. Thank you for sharing your opinion and knowledge, it is much appreciated
dang that was some good detective work dave. the notch lines up perfectly with the drain hole.
There are no stakes in there to keep the bushing in place.
Had I known what I know now I would have rebuilt it myself. My old pump is still in the transmission which is installed at the moment. I plan to pull it this weekend and swap it with this piece of junk just so I can start my truck up finally. I'll rebuild the old one, pick up some new experience, and change it out eventually if it's not already time to go to a 4l80e by then. Thank you for sharing your opinion and knowledge, it is much appreciated
DaveP
Active member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
I looked again. Those are punch marks. When the two halves are dis-assembled, the stator shaft isn't in the middle of the bushing. Some tech (?) used a punch to 'fold' the bushing into the bore to dislodge it and then drive it out. Those are not stake notches. They're the marks of a hacker. But they aren't detrimental.
I looked again. Those are punch marks. When the two halves are dis-assembled, the stator shaft isn't in the middle of the bushing. Some tech (?) used a punch to 'fold' the bushing into the bore to dislodge it and then drive it out. Those are not stake notches. They're the marks of a hacker. But they aren't detrimental.
blacktyaffair
Donating Member
Re: 10 vane pump 700r4 question
I'm curious, where was this pump ordered from?
I'm curious, where was this pump ordered from?