trans installation

[psmvchaser]

Getting ready to reinstall my trans.

What a great couple of articles from Blake on the trans removal tips. I had never even attempted to pull a tranny, much less a transfer case, and I did most of it by myself with some help from a fellow syty friend.

Anyway, is the install basically the reverse of the removal? Any other tips or recommendations would be helpful.

Thanks,

Ken

 

[MikeRenz]

Re: trans installation

yes its the reverse of removal. buy/rent/make yourself a tranny jack, unless you have a lift and a couple friends to help.

 

[SY2932]

Re: trans installation

yes its the reverse of removal. buy/rent/make yourself a tranny jack, unless you have a lift and a couple friends to help.

Ditto on the trans jack, it WILL save you a lot of frustration in the end. Best $50 I ever spent :

"Every syty owner needs one of these..."

I like to put a light coating of grease on the edge of the bellhousing as well as the dowel pins (stay clear of where the bolts go, you DON'T want them loosening up) so that the trans can't get "bonded" the to motor the *next* time I have to pull it . I also put a little grease on the "nose" of the TC where in goes into the driveplate as well to keep it from getting hung up.

If you are still utilizing the stock downpipe, do yourself a favor and "modify" the sheet metal over the stud that holds the downpipe bracket on the passenger side. It will make putting it back in easier as well as removing it:

"If you have ever pulled your own transmission before, you know what's up with this. Primed and painted afterwards..."

It is VERY important to fully seat the torque converter on the pump or you WILL damage it when you bolt the trans back up to the motor:

"Fully seated torque converter. With a straight edge across the front of the bellhousing, the distance to the mounting pads should be approximately 1 inch."

Dump at least one quart of ATF into the torque converter (most TC's will hold approximately three quarts) prior to installing it and wipe clean ATF on the "snout" of the TC as well.

Use LocTite 262 (red stuff) for the torque converter bolts to keep them from backing out.

Even if you didn't have a blown transmission, it wouldn't hurt to flush the lines and cooler(s) just to play it safe:

"How transmission lines and coolers get flushed..."

Getting the topmost bellhousing bolt on the passenger side can be a royal PITA because it doesn't have a flange on it as it uses both the trans fill tube and wiring harness bracket as a "washer" :evil: . If you have small arms, it is easier to "thread" the bolt back in there from the top of the motor rather from below.

Replace that stupid single T40 Torx bolt (if you even have one or *several* like one truck I saw ) on your torque converter inspection plate with a "regular" one so that you don't have worry about stripping it out. Thread size is M10-1.50 X 30mm (that's 5mm longer than the front propshaft bolt, same pitch) BTW.

After you're done wrestling with that pig, have a cold one as you earned it...

 

[kwick6]

Re: trans installation

Ken,

I'm going to get one of those pumps like Mike has....

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=LAWN&pid=08302660000

The garden hose to hose barb fitting is available at home depot.

Did you get the bolts and nuts for the hughes TC yet?

 

[SY2932]

Re: trans installation

Did you get the bolts and nuts for the hughes TC yet?

"3K stall TC w/lock up part #HP2230L $412.75 on 10/03 through paceparts.com list price is $956.37. The mounting pads on this TC need to be drilled with a 7/16" drill to accept three grade eight 7/16" X 14 bolts one inch long. The nut goes the motor side and gets 262 (red) LocTite."

 

[mrweelr]

Re: trans installation

That tranny dipstick tube gave me the most grief when lifting my new trans up to the motor. You have to be sure to route it properly between the wiring harnesses and hoses while keeping the bracket from getting sandwiched between the trans and motor. I put some grease on the dowel pins, but not on the entire face of the bellhousing. I also put anti-seize on all of the bellhousing bolts before reinstalling. When you get the tranny half-way up to the motor, that's when you want to carefully reattach the TV cable and screw in the nut for it...just take your time and don't rush things. All the previous things mentioned are good advice too.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: trans installation

Oh yeah, that drill pump Mike depicted worked out great for me too. Got the pump, brass fittings, and nylon tubing at the hardware store - one stop. Only took a few quarts of new ATF to flush out the stock rad cooler.

 

[psmvchaser]

Re: trans installation

Thanks for all the advice guys, good info.

Yeah Scott, I got the nuts and bolts for the tc. I would like to flush the lines and cooler. If you have some time this weekend or early next week, let me know.

 

[Andreas]

Re: trans installation

That tranny dipstick tube gave me the most grief when lifting my new trans up to the motor. You have to be sure to route it properly between the wiring harnesses and hoses while keeping the bracket from getting sandwiched between the trans and motor. I put some grease on the dowel pins, but not on the entire face of the bellhousing. I also put anti-seize on all of the bellhousing bolts before reinstalling. When you get the tranny half-way up to the motor, that's when you want to carefully reattach the TV cable and screw in the nut for it...just take your time and don't rush things. All the previous things mentioned are good advice too.

I didn't say anything about the dipstick tube because it felt silly after I muscled the tranny into place, I though it was just me LOL. But I agree with you that was the hardest part speciallt when you put the tranny in by your self. I spend 20minutes on that just to get it in the right posistion so I could put in the bolt.