Quick prop shaft question

Kybol

New member
Can the cardan joint be replaced/rebuilt? I pulled my propshaft out thinking maybe i needed to replace the ujoints in it, but noticed the ball and socket(guessing thats what is in there) in the middle is shot. Pretty much every thread i have searched says to replace with a gilbert. Beign broke I would like to just rebuild it for cheap, or do i need to just replace the whole thing?\

Thanks
 

TYHOGG

Active member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

You can do either or. to replace it you would have to cut out cv and replace it with a new unit. Or you can rebuild it with 2 new joints and a cv kit. The end with the flange will come as an assembly with a new ball joint and needle bearings inside and new spring for tension.
 

Kybol

New member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

So after looking at the prop shaft, I see it has a dynotech sticker on it. ARe these much better then stock ones, and should i just replace the double cardan joint, instead of spending $400 on a new one? Here are a couple pics of it:
IMG_0635.jpg

IMG_0638.jpg
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

I had an issue with my front prop shaft making ticking noises while driving. Ended up having a shop in Forest Park, GA (outside ATL) rebuild the joint and had them replace all the U-joints and balance the shafts while they were at it. Replacing all hardware with Spicer components and the balancing ran me just over 300 and made a HUGE difference!
 

1madgumby

New member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

Replace it with A good one, that one is A stock one, that was the Man. from the factory. I might Have A D&R heavy duty one here in A couple weeks if you hold tight.

So after looking at the prop shaft, I see it has a dynotech sticker on it. ARe these much better then stock ones, and should i just replace the double cardan joint, instead of spending $400 on a new one? Here are a couple pics of it:
IMG_0635.jpg

IMG_0638.jpg
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Quick prop shaft question

forget all the stock mess and put in a gilbert and never again worry about it. I stock them and can ship same day.
 

Kybol

New member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

Yeah, thats what I will probably do, just wasn't to sure if this was a stock one or not.
 

nallj92

Active member
Re: Quick prop shaft question

I don't know if Dynotech is still in business. If so, give them a ring and ask for a quote for repair, and if they still have parts. 1-248-362-2777

A Bravada shaft is about 2-1/4" in diameter. It also has a larger front flange pattern and will not fit the SyTy front pinion flange. The tube will hit the shifter bracket. Bravada shafts are also 15-18 years old too, and may have problems.

A Blazer 4X4 shaft has open u-joints, and will require changing the front pinion yoke. (So will the Gilbert). The blazer shaft is also appx. 2" in diameter, and has the same shifter clearance issues.

Having looked at all the options, why not service and repair your origional? It fits, doesn't require shifter bracket or pinion yoke mods, and should be the least expensive fix, all-in. Sure, common opinion here is "Gilbert", "stocker is a POS, get rid of it", Or replace that junk and "never look back"... Makes sense if you ARE having chronic failures. But your origional lasted 18 years. Not bad. You can expect the same service life from a replacement from Dynotech.

Your truck isn't going to last 18 more years.

Yes, I pulled the bravada shaft with the yoke, and use the shifter bracket from detroit turbo that is made for the gilbert shaft, giving me my clearance. Installed new joints, and saved about 300 bucks in the process

Thanks for the techincal reply as always dave! Good advice also.
 

Davemc1963

93 Ty Owner
Re: Quick prop shaft question

Whats the advantage of the Gilbert over the D&R one? I was led to believe the D&R one is about $100 cheaper and was a direct replacement. What needs to be done to fit the Gilbert besides the smaller shifter bracket? Also, the D&R has an extra UJ giving a similar alignment function to the original with the Cardan. Is this a positive or a negative feature?
If the only negative is that there's more to go wrong, I could probably live with that. With the Gilbert only having the two UJ's compared to the D&R's three will that make the UJ's on the Gilbert work harder?
Both the Gilbert and the D&R look like quality pieces.
 

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
Re: Quick prop shaft question

Whats the advantage of the Gilbert over the D&R one? I was led to believe the D&R one is about $100 cheaper and was a direct replacement. What needs to be done to fit the Gilbert besides the smaller shifter bracket? Also, the D&R has an extra UJ giving a similar alignment function to the original with the Cardan. Is this a positive or a negative feature?
If the only negative is that there's more to go wrong, I could probably live with that. With the Gilbert only having the two UJ's compared to the D&R's three will that make the UJ's on the Gilbert work harder?
Both the Gilbert and the D&R look like quality pieces.

there has never been a failure of a gilbert that I know of. that includes several 9 sec trucks. you have to replace the front diff yoke with a gilbert and I'm not sure if that is the case with the other. I use what I know works and has never failed. there are almost no parts on a syty that can ever say something like that.

I don't like the fact that the d&r still has the double carden. I like simple and one less mode of failure is a plus in my book.
 

qbnkiller

Conflaguration Specialist
Re: Quick prop shaft question

the single cardin joints have a tendency to vibrate more, causing drivetrain harmonic issues.

Of the ones that have been made by D&R, I have never heard of one failing. They have also been in several very fast (10-sec or faster) trucks. I started selling these a few years ago...even after I stopped selling these on this board, others have found D&R, and have bought from them directly. IMHO, save yourself $100 and get the D&R shaft...it is stronger than the stock one and will perform just as well.

If you dont like the double joint, you can have them make it as a single - it'll save you $15.
 
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